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My question to you guys is what camshaft would you recomend that I run? and valve springs?street/strip use, not a whole lot of cruisin.
I'm running a 350, not bored over, 291 heads, stainless valves, performer RPM air gap intake, msd ignition, roller rockers with hardened rods, edelbrock performer carb(750 cfm).
thanks for the help, every engine builder around here won't give me a straight answer, they want to do all the work and take all the money.
We need more info. like weight,stall speed, gear ratio,size.Comp ratio. etc.:)Quote:
Originally posted by SLAMMDS15
My question to you guys is what camshaft would you recomend that I run? and valve springs?street/strip use, not a whole lot of cruisin.
I'm running a 350, not bored over, 291 heads, stainless valves, performer RPM air gap intake, msd ignition, roller rockers with hardened rods, edelbrock performer carb(750 cfm).
thanks for the help, every engine builder around here won't give me a straight answer, they want to do all the work and take all the money.
weight? wieght of the vehicle? its 3300 lbs according to the scales
11.5:1
stall speed 1900-2300 rpm
its in an '86 s-10 thats running 3.73 gears with a 700R4 trans, still undecided about the tire size, but I have alot of gear sets to chose from.
thanks for the help.
I like the Crane part#110692 cam, grind # H-238/3347-2s-6 with springs # 99846.
I'd loose the Air Gap and find a Dart single plane high rise.
would there be any machine work involved in using that cam? the block has not been decked, if there would be what would bw involved?
Slammed- have you ever built an engine before?
To be honest with you, nothing beyond stock. I'm a deisel mechanic (wait for the jokes) so all this stuff is a learning process for me. everyhting I have done has been self taught, so bear with me please. I ask these questions because I don't know, and would like to know the proper way to do things, the shade tree mechanics around here tell me a different story every F$*kin time, and to be honest I'm getting kind of sick of it.
ok- hey, nothing wrong with that....take your block to a good machine shop and ask them to prep it for a street/strip build. This should include tanking the block, fluxing it, checking it for shift, replacing the soft and hard plugs, line hone it if your going to run a different crank than what it came with, clean up the lifter bores. I have the hard plugs tapped & screw in plugs installed- if you have your pistons your going to run ( 10:1/2 to 1's or higher with that cam) then you can have the bore work done, after that have the cam bearings installed- or do it yourself, after all the cleaning's done.
I don't like to shave the block all the way down to 0 deck the first time around- if anything goes bang then you have nowhere to go to repair. I'd go with just a check on the deck the first time.
For the rest of you who would like to see this cam.....Quote:
Originally posted by hambiskit
I like the Crane part#110692 cam, grind # H-238/3347-2s-6 with springs # 99846.
I'd loose the Air Gap and find a Dart single plane high rise.
http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?s...92&lvl=2&prt=5
That has a 106 LS also Tech.
I ran that cam in my late model last year- this year I'm stepping it up to 516/535 lift solid roller with a 102 LS.
Just for playing.....
Which cam would you go with Richard?
Your gonna need the tranny built and a 2800 stall too.
I am assuming all of this has been done, I had the machine workdone and let them put the pistons in. I'm not sure if I would be able to run that cam shaft, the heads have been done, valve seats ground and guides done. I just bougt a set of stainless valves, now I need to know which springs I need and whether I need to machine the spring seats( one of those things I was told )Quote:
Originally posted by hambiskit
ok- hey, nothing wrong with that....take your block to a good machine shop and ask them to prep it for a street/strip build. This should include tanking the block, fluxing it, checking it for shift, replacing the soft and hard plugs, line hone it if your going to run a different crank than what it came with, clean up the lifter bores. I have the hard plugs tapped & screw in plugs installed- if you have your pistons your going to run ( 10:1/2 to 1's or higher with that cam) then you can have the bore work done, after that have the cam bearings installed- or do it yourself, after all the cleaning's done.
I don't like to shave the block all the way down to 0 deck the first time around- if anything goes bang then you have nowhere to go to repair. I'd go with just a check on the deck the first time.
I was told that this cam would also be a good option
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1
Like I said you guys know better than I do, any help is appreciated, thanks.
what about this cam with my current setup i know of another car setup and it seems to work well but its in a big car and standard hes running double bump head as well.. not sure if it will suit my application as well..any ideas???
http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?s...51&lvl=2&prt=5
....I noticed you mentioned something about 11 1/2 to 1 compression & 291 heads which I believe are iron heads. This might be too much for todays 92 octane gas {please disregard if your already aware of this}. And although I'm certainly not qualified to pick out a cam/heads/manafold/converter combo for you {others on the site can} I do know that your combo is mis-matched. Meaning that your stall is too low for the cam, the performer air gap manafold doesnt' match the cam/compression, etc.... hope this helps ya. Bill
Jim, I think you've pretty much nailed it. It's matched to the c.r. and is a dual pattern cam, which is what you need with production heads. With a good set of headers and unrestricted exhaust system, the sound of this cam should scare the hell out of small children.Quote:
Originally posted by hambiskit
Which cam would you go with Richard?
so I'm confused???? which cam and springs would go well with what I have? and/or what could I change relitively cheaply to make it better?
Oh and would one of those cams I mentioned be any good? or the one mentioned before hand be better, I just don't want to get into any more machine work, I'm running low on funds. The E-test on my caprice killed my budjet.
Thanks Richard....
chase's the cats outta the yard too.
The Comp xtreme 274 will work for you as well, it won't come on as quick with the 110-112 LS but the price reflects the difference.
A stock iron head will take up to about 500 lift without any major head work modifacations. Just match your spring set from the cam grinders recomendations- I always check the seat pressures on the springs to make sure not to get a mismatched set- this happens, and dropping a valve is terminal. While your there- check for bind also- I had a 292 bind up on me once....worst cam I ever bought, I use it for a door stop.
Go to some 4x4 & hi-performance swap meets and swap that intake for the highest rise SINGLE plane intake you can find and you should be good. Save up as you can for a set of serious heads, something that flows about 180-200 on the intake side.
Good Luck
What do you mean by bind?
If the lift is too high for the springs they will bind togather and you will either wipe a lobe off the cam, snap a spring, or the keepers will jump out & drop the valve down the chamber...not good.
I run 1/8th min. ( check with a feeler gauge) between the coils at full lift. Any less and you will need to have the seats cut 60 thousands and shim up The cam makers are pretty good about this anymore so make sure to order the springs made for the cam grind recomended.
I wouldn't buy a cam off of E-BAY.
Point taken about e-bay, and spring bind. how do you check valve to piston clearence?
clay the top of a piston- put the head on it - snug it down- turn it over once by hand- remove the head- mic. the clay.
With those heads you should be more than good.
The cam will work fine in the engine but you don't have enough stall speed or gear to take full advantage of it.Either change your stall and gears or take 10 degree's off the cam at .050.:)Quote:
Originally posted by hambiskit
I like the Crane part#110692 cam, grind # H-238/3347-2s-6 with springs # 99846.
I'd loose the Air Gap and find a Dart single plane high rise.