Printable View
I have basically a stock 350 that I use for oval track racing, to conform to the rules we can only use a stock system with a max 4 core rad, does anyone know what the best way to provide more cooling as my car seems to run hot (over 250 deg.) I have tried wetter water, blowing out and straightening all the fins, I have had the rad clean by a shop. I have tried different size washers in place of the t-stat. WHAT AM I TO DO?:(
First slow down the water pump by about 25 %.Do you have a high flow water pump?Then make sure you have a very good flex fan with plenty of blades.Build a fan shroud that covers the fan.If you run it much longer at 250+ temps. the heads are not long for this world.There is no reason a stock 350 should run this warm.Quote:
Originally posted by toad mountain
I have basically a stock 350 that I use for oval track racing, to conform to the rules we can only use a stock system with a max 4 core rad, does anyone know what the best way to provide more cooling as my car seems to run hot (over 250 deg.) I have tried wetter water, blowing out and straightening all the fins, I have had the rad clean by a shop. I have tried different size washers in place of the t-stat. WHAT AM I TO DO?:(
what type rad. are you using, crossflow?
I have a stock water pump and have tried everything from a plastic flex fan rated at 8000 RPM, a stock fan, and am now running a 6 blade high-defection steel fan. I have built a fairly good shroud around the fan. The only thing that I have done differently from my last motor is changed the jets in the carb to smaller ones. Would changing the jets increase the heat enough to make a difference, or how about my timing, I run it at about 35 deg advanced.
What do you mean by a racing thermostat?
Yes. if you run it way to lean it will build heat.A racing thermostat is a hi-flow thermostat.Quote:
Originally posted by toad mountain
I have a stock water pump and have tried everything from a plastic flex fan rated at 8000 RPM, a stock fan, and am now running a 6 blade high-defection steel fan. I have built a fairly good shroud around the fan. The only thing that I have done differently from my last motor is changed the jets in the carb to smaller ones. Would changing the jets increase the heat enough to make a difference, or how about my timing, I run it at about 35 deg advanced.
What do you mean by a racing thermostat?
COOL RUNNINGQuote:
Originally posted by erik erikson
Yes. if you run it way to lean it will build heat.A racing thermostat is a hi-flow thermostat.
Hot weather, towing or intense, low-speed wheeling can overpower your stock water pump, especially if your 4x4 mill has been performance-tweaked. But Milodon High Volume Water Pumps and Milodon 160-degree High Flow Thermostats are designed to provide a one-two punch to knock out GM V8 overheating problems for less than a hundred bucks. The water pump (part number 16210) and thermostat (part number 16400) were used in this test. Ford and Chrysler applications are slightly more expensive.
After the engine is cool, the coolant is drained and saved by disconnecting the lower radiator hose. Then the engine accessories in the way of the water pump are removed. Tech tip: It's easiest to loosen the fan hub/pulley bolts before taking tension off the fan belt.
Removing the old pump with the lower radiator hose still attached makes it a snap to position the hose correctly on the replacement pump. According to Milodon, the High Volume Pump helps prevent steam pockets and hot spots in the engine block by increasing coolant flow up to 30 percent. The pumps feature large-diameter shafts and heavy-duty bearings.
As promised, this Milodon High Volume Water Pump was a direct bolt-in replacement on this Chevy Small Block. New gaskets are supplied, but you need to supply the RTV. Milodon's 160-degree High Flow Thermostat was also a quick drop-in. According to the company, the unit features a Balanced Sleeve design made to work well with the increased flow of the High Volume Water Pump.
Sure enough, after reinstalling all the accessories, refilling the coolant and double-checking all the hose connections, the Small Block V8 ran 20 to 25 degrees cooler around town as compared to the old stock pump and thermostat. Now we can't wait to hit the trail for a thorough field test.
http://www.milodon.net/main.htm
Quote:
Originally posted by techinspector1
COOL RUNNING
Hot weather, towing or intense, low-speed wheeling can overpower your stock water pump, especially if your 4x4 mill has been performance-tweaked. But Milodon High Volume Water Pumps and Milodon 160-degree High Flow Thermostats are designed to provide a one-two punch to knock out GM V8 overheating problems for less than a hundred bucks. The water pump (part number 16210) and thermostat (part number 16400) were used in this test. Ford and Chrysler applications are slightly more expensive.
After the engine is cool, the coolant is drained and saved by disconnecting the lower radiator hose. Then the engine accessories in the way of the water pump are removed. Tech tip: It's easiest to loosen the fan hub/pulley bolts before taking tension off the fan belt.
Removing the old pump with the lower radiator hose still attached makes it a snap to position the hose correctly on the replacement pump. According to Milodon, the High Volume Pump helps prevent steam pockets and hot spots in the engine block by increasing coolant flow up to 30 percent. The pumps feature large-diameter shafts and heavy-duty bearings.
As promised, this Milodon High Volume Water Pump was a direct bolt-in replacement on this Chevy Small Block. New gaskets are supplied, but you need to supply the RTV. Milodon's 160-degree High Flow Thermostat was also a quick drop-in. According to the company, the unit features a Balanced Sleeve design made to work well with the increased flow of the High Volume Water Pump.
Sure enough, after reinstalling all the accessories, refilling the coolant and double-checking all the hose connections, the Small Block V8 ran 20 to 25 degrees cooler around town as compared to the old stock pump and thermostat. Now we can't wait to hit the trail for a thorough field test.
http://www.milodon.net/main.htm
tech you didn't say if this was round track info. or st. that would be nice around town, but on a round track, where you adv.5,000 rpm's, they are two dif. things. we cut some of the blades out of the pump, or slow the pmp down, to decrease the water flow, not increase the flow. the thermostat should work. wouldn't want toad mountain to go buy that pump for a round track car. :cool:
Thanks for your input guys, it definately is for oval track at the present. If I am running to lean, (that's where the car doesn't bog down or sound like it is missing), should a guy decrease the advance to 33 or 32 degrees from 36 to stop the extra heat from detonation?