small block suburban

Printable View

11-29-2005, 09:34 AM
30-A Rider

small block suburban

I have a 1993 Chev Suburban. 350 FI 4/Wd with automatic overdrive Th700. I dont know the differential ratios but imagine they are somehwere between 350, 373 or 411, as the truck was equipped from factory with towing package. This truck has been absolutely great to me as all of my suburbans have, getting decent fuel milage, and not using or leaking a drop of oil. I really like this one and instead of getting a new one Im gonna stick witht his one. It has been meticulously maitained especially with regards to the engine and trans, both with 230K miles and never rebuilt (only repairs have been a H20 pump, new radiator, and new fuel pump). I figure within the next 20K miles the old girl deserves a fresh rebuild and Im looking for suggestions. The truck has always done well with low RPM power but the mid range has always been very weak (passing a car at highway speed is down right dangerous, as the power falls flat on its face in passing gear! If I remember correctly factory HP was maxed at 230 and I dont remember torque figures but it is the weakest power wise of any GM vehicle I have owned. Ok so my plan is as follows:

.030 recondition orig block
turn stock crank .010/ .010
Stock rods reconditioned with ARP hardware
Flat top cast, hyper, or forg pistons up to 9:1 ratio? Suggestions?
Stock heads with some cleaning up in the intake and exhaust runners with new stock sized SS valves.
Roller, roller tip, stock new rockers? Suggestions?
(Will stick with stock TBI fuel injection)
Ok CAM I have no idea, but its gotta have a little more umph than stock, want to stick with hydraulic. SUGGESTIONS?

Truck is my daily driver and pulls my boat here and there. Most driving is a mix of around town and some highway. Occasionally drive it on the beach in 4WD. I do not by any means beat the truck, but want some more all around power for the motor throughout the lower and mid rpm ranges (as a truck like this should really not have any high rpm operation)

Right now the truck runs a stock exhaust to ta high flow cat and then opens to 3" single into a flowmaster and 3" tailpipe (which when I put on increased power quite a bit. Im leaning towards some shorty headers..Any opinions and suggextions? Also thining about eliminating high flow cat? Finally if anyone knows of a manufacturer than makes a true dual bolt on system please let me know.

Ok sorry for the long post but wanted to give as much info as possible for good responses. Let the opinions fly and thanks in advance to those who respond.
11-29-2005, 10:29 AM
Dave Severson

Ummmmmmm.;) :p Sell it and buy an F250 crewcab with a powerstroke and a 5 speed???? Sorry, had to say it... Love my Ford's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:3dSMILE:
11-29-2005, 10:37 AM
30-A Rider

Well considering that the Caprice cabs and police cars, and the Tahoes and Yukons in NYC I personally know of are running 500,000 plus miles on some of them (funny how if you ask a cop if they would rather drive an old caprice, suburban or tahoe instead of the new Ford crown vic they all say yes, the fords are dogs.... wonder why)which you can imagine are beat to hell I'll stick with my suburban thanks. Nice try Mr. Severson, go back to blue oval land and fantacize some more about being the #1 auto manufacturer not the 2nd!

Now if someone wants to add something constructive Id really appretiate it.
11-29-2005, 10:44 AM
Dave Severson

Geez, Sorry. Didn't mean to ruin your whole day!!!! That's why I wrote what I wrote with smiles, etc. But seriously, if you think that SBC will ever outpull and outmileage a powerstroke, then one of us certainly is fantasiciing!!!!!! Chevy is #1, I guess the plant closings and layoffs are just more of my overactive imagination???? Chill dude, it was all said in jest.

If you want some respectable power out of that SBC, how about turning it into a 383 stroker, updating the heads and efi, a cat back exhaust system, shift kit for the tranny. There are a number of manufacturers offering crate stroker motors that would be equal to the task......
11-29-2005, 11:20 AM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by Dave Severson
Geez, Sorry. Didn't mean to ruin your whole day!!!! That's why I wrote what I wrote with smiles, etc. But seriously, if you think that SBC will ever outpull and outmileage a powerstroke, then one of us certainly is fantasiciing!!!!!! Chevy is #1, I guess the plant closings and layoffs are just more of my overactive imagination???? Chill dude, it was all said in jest.

If you want some respectable power out of that SBC, how about turning it into a 383 stroker, updating the heads and efi, a cat back exhaust system, shift kit for the tranny. There are a number of manufacturers offering crate stroker motors that would be equal to the task......

BAD DAVE,I CAN'T BELIEVE YOU SAID THAT.OH, DO I NEED TO REMIND YOU WHAT BRAND WINS MORE RACE'S THAN ALL OTHERS COMBINED IN ALL FORMS OF MOTORSPORTS.THATS RIGHT CHEVROLET.TOUCHE.
11-29-2005, 11:30 AM
Dave Severson

Well, if we were talking racing, I could only agree with you. Thought we were talking about street performance and towing. I raced sprint cars for many years, all chebbie powered. Even a couple of chebbie powered bracket cars, one Super Gas car, one rear engine chebbie powered dragster....... Brand loyalty is great, blind loyalty is dubious, at best!!!!!!

But then, that's JMO and not intended to offend ANYONE. Main reason I love my Ford's now, I am building cars only for me, and like to have something that stands out from the crowd a bit.
11-29-2005, 11:42 AM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by Dave Severson
Well, if we were talking racing, I could only agree with you. Thought we were talking about street performance and towing. I raced sprint cars for many years, all chebbie powered. Even a couple of chebbie powered bracket cars, one Super Gas car, one rear engine chebbie powered dragster....... Brand loyalty is great, blind loyalty is dubious, at best!!!!!!

But then, that's JMO and not intended to offend ANYONE. Main reason I love my Ford's now, I am building cars only for me, and like to have something that stands out from the crowd a bit.

(BLIND LOYALTY IS DUBIOUS AT BEST)I CAN'T AGREE WITH YOU MORE WITH THIS STATMENT.SOMETIMES PEOPLE ARE UN-CERTAIN ABOUT WHAT THEY KNOW OR THINK THEY KNOW.DID YOU RACE 360 OR THE 410 CLASS?
11-29-2005, 11:53 AM
Dave Severson

Eric, I really hate to admit it, but it was before there even was a 360 class!!!! Actually, back before they put wings on them things!!!!! We ran a 410 on the big tracks, Brodix heads and Hillborn's. Had a 310 incher for a couple tracks with 310 inch limits, with a set of Brownfield heads!!!!! Our very first car came out of Ohio, was originally a single hoop cage car with a BOLT ON full cage!!!!!!!! Quit circle burnin' in 1977, guess that kind of dates me!!!!!! lol

Sorry about the thread hi-jack, 30 A Rider's original was about towing. Threw in a bit I know about chebbies, not sure my stroker recomendation would work with the TBI???? A lot more knowledgeable guys around than me on the injection and electronics......
11-29-2005, 11:58 AM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by Dave Severson
Eric, I really hate to admit it, but it was before there even was a 360 class!!!! Actually, back before they put wings on them things!!!!! We ran a 410 on the big tracks, Brodix heads and Hillborn's. Had a 310 incher for a couple tracks with 310 inch limits, with a set of Brownfield heads!!!!! Our very first car came out of Ohio, was originally a single hoop cage car with a BOLT ON full cage!!!!!!!! Quit circle burnin' in 1977, guess that kind of dates me!!!!!! lol

Sorry about the thread hi-jack, 30 A Rider's original was about towing. Threw in a bit I know about chebbies, not sure my stroker recomendation would work with the TBI???? A lot more knowledgeable guys around than me on the injection and electronics......

THE REASON I ASKED BECAUSE I AM GOOD FRIENDS WITH ROCKY HODGES NEPHEW.I KNOW ROCKY MADE IT TO YANKTON S.D. MORE THAN A FEW TIMES.
11-29-2005, 12:03 PM
Dave Severson

Rocky raced up in our area quite a number of times!!!!! Was a super great driver!!!! Tried getting around him once at a Sunday afternoon race in Hartford, SD........Wound up on my head a considerable distance away from turn 2!!!!!!!!!! If you see Rocky, tell him Hi from me, DeVries, and Fick!!!!!!!!
11-29-2005, 02:06 PM
dcoffield

:HMMM: ...(the swat team moves in to return the hijacked thread).....:3dSMILE:

30-A, I have a 94 sub with 217k miles just like yours. Keep her rollin'!
11-30-2005, 07:40 AM
30-A Rider

Your response indicates you were under the impression your post ruined my day. By far it did not. You gave a wise ass response to my inquiry, so in turn I was a wise ass back. It was all in good fun on my part. Maybe I should have put smiley faces all over my post to indicate my tone, but I always though those message Icons were rather gay looking; to each his own; I never felt hod rodscars and trucks correlated with gay smiley faces but maybe you do. The pathetic thing about my innocent enough post (looking for some experienced advice) is what has been a problem on this site for quite some time. Someone new posts, and a know it all wise ass veteran on here can dish out fun but cant take it back, and all othe other cronies on here jump on the band wagon. Sound familiar? It should thats why there are so many new people who come to this board, only to leave in short order due to the attitude among the regulars. You get few new members and thats why this site is so dead as compared to the sister site club chopper which thrives!

No I do not think my Suburban or any other gas powered vehicle can outpull or last as compared to any other deisel powered truck...its just not comparing apples to apples. As far as getting serious on this matter as you did; why I dont know. Lets see Ford was the first large scale auto manufactureer, yet GM had been #1 for how many years now. I dont care how many plants close or employees are laid off.... you can brag when Ford is #1, and for the past how ever many years it is they are not. Touche' bitch.
11-30-2005, 07:47 AM
Dave Severson

Well golly, you are also welcome for the advice given on a SBC for your Suburban that would build the torque and work well for the purposes you intended......... Sorry you turned everything personal and turned it into nothing more than the age old Ford V chebbie debate.
11-30-2005, 07:52 AM
30-A Rider

Your response indicates you were under the impression your post ruined my day. By far it did not. You gave a wise ass response to my inquiry, so in turn I was a wise ass back. It was all in good fun on my part. Maybe I should have put smiley faces all over my post to indicate my tone, but I always though those message Icons were rather gay looking; to each his own; I never felt hod rodscars and trucks correlated with gay smiley faces but maybe you do. The pathetic thing about my innocent enough post (looking for some experienced advice) is what has been a problem on this site for quite some time. Someone new posts, and a know it all wise ass veteran on here can dish out fun but cant take it back, and all othe other cronies on here jump on the band wagon. Sound familiar? It should thats why there are so many new people who come to this board, only to leave in short order due to the attitude among the regulars. You get few new members and thats why this site is so dead as compared to the sister site club chopper which thrives!

No I do not think my Suburban or any other gas powered vehicle can outpull or last as compared to any other deisel powered truck...its just not comparing apples to apples. As far as getting serious on this matter as you did; why I dont know. Lets see Ford was the first large scale auto manufactureer, yet GM had been #1 for how many years now. I dont care how many plants close or employees are laid off.... you can brag when Ford is #1, and for the past how ever many years it is they are not. Touche' bitch.
11-30-2005, 08:28 AM
R Pope

For towing you want to keep away from high compression ratios and long duration cams, unless you want to spend half your trips in second gear trying to cool the engine down after every little rise in the road. Been there, done that! Get a cam made for a tow truck or SUV, and put on a free-flowing set of exhausts, with X-pipes. The biggest radiator that'll fit is a good investment, too. Remember that, just because the guage says its running cool, that doesn't mean the valves and pistons aren't too hot.
11-30-2005, 09:49 AM
shawnlee28

gezz I guess selling the most trucks last year and the most cars this year makes ford last?:LOL:
11-30-2005, 10:17 AM
30-A Rider

Excuse me sir. You started with the wise ass remarks. I was just following suit, and continue to do so. I have no ford/ Chevrolet debate...again just being a wise ass like you were.

Thanks for the effort on the suggestion but, I was looking for advice of piston matierial, and cam recomendations. I appretiate the stroker suggestion which is something I though of but would rather stick with the stock crank. Again, I appretiate the suggestion and sorry if I didnt acknowledge you suggestions.
11-30-2005, 10:25 AM
30-A Rider

Uh Shawnlee. #1 I dont rememer asking you. #2 GM is the largest manufacturer in the auto world; fact. #3 do your homework before you open your mouth. The point in question was an engine rebuild on my Suburban, not anything about a Ford or any other vehicle for that matter of fact. Suburbans dont do any one thing perfect....but most things real good such as towing, storage, carrying people. Take note: It is the longest made vehicle in the history of the US! Fact! It is the original SUV. Again do your homework before you spout at the mouth. If your opinion or anyone elses on here differs thats fine, your entitled to it, but it has not a thing to do with my small block, and I didnt ask you for it, so what is your point being on the thread I created? I asked questions about my motor rebuild. If anyone else wants to dicuss a Ford engine good, Im glad, have had a few myself, but go do it on the Ford forum thread.
11-30-2005, 11:15 AM
Aster

Hey 30-A sounds like you stepped in a pile of shit here. It's not always that way, Dave likes to joke around but he's harmless and does have some good advice. I have a 93 4WD pickup and had the same problems you are discribing. I pulled the motor and it was in good shape after a zillion miles. I took it to a buddy of mine at the machine shop and had them do a hone job on the block plus all the usual rebuild stuff. I went back with the stock pistons, new rings and bearings but I added a Crane RV cam (it's got the power curve you need without killing the mpg too much) and I added a double roller timing chain. Other than that, it's stock. It pulls great (I had a 17' Boston Whaler that I sold) and passing really kicks ass with plenty of power. I get about 15 MPG on the highway, not to good but that's the trade off. I also think it needs to breath more. A different TBI, maybe from Edelbrock, would make a huge difference, I just haven't made that leap yet. You can also add one of the "chips" available to help even more. The point being, if you add the cam then you have to change the stock TBI. Other than that, you should be happy with it. It's not necessary to do all the stroking crap. That's going to create more problems and cost a hell of a lot more money. A word of caution: be sure that your tranny is in tiptop shape. With the new power I took the truck around the block for a test drive, I just had to punch it and broke the tranny. That was another 1400 bucks. Good luck with it, the only other way out is to add a big block but that is another thread. Over and out.
11-30-2005, 05:02 PM
dcoffield

Don't let the plant closing and layoff announcements mislead you. The majority of the plant closings were already in the works and many long overdue. One facility they just closed last year near me was the longest continuously operating factory in the states, open since the 19teens. The 3800 engine plant in Flint was announced to close. Everyone in and around that plant knew it was going to close for the last 2 years. And just by coincidence GM is going to open a new V6 plant across town just as the 3800 plant closes. Since the GM-UAW contract guarantees employment, they tend to just move people from one plant to another. They can't really 'lay off' workers, they put them in what's called the 'jobs bank' and still pay them. All of which makes GM the competitive monster that it is today!:eek:

( the above was not intended to infer/imply that Chevy/Ford/Dodge is any Better/Worse/Same as the other and in no way should be construed as encouraging preceding C/F debate.)

Safely entrenched in Chevy country (go north until you stop seeing rice burners, when you only see Chevy's and Ford's, go another 60 miles north until you only see Chevy's, then you're here).:3dSMILE:
11-30-2005, 05:40 PM
erik erikson

I LOVE EACH AND EVERY ONE OF YOU.CAN'T WE ALL JUST GET ALONG.I FEEL WE SHOULD HAVE A LARGE GROUP HUG.I LOVE YOU MAN. :LOL:
11-30-2005, 06:35 PM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by DennyW
:)

I CAN FEEL IT WORKING.AHHH ISN'T THAT NICE.:whacked:
11-30-2005, 06:49 PM
dcoffield

Group hug.........hey, which one of you grabbed my ass!:eek:
11-30-2005, 07:17 PM
BigTruckDriver

30 A Rider ,stop while you are ahead.The older guys on the site will ban together against you ,and you have no chance of winning your arguement.Nothing against you ,just a newbie thing.Just let it go bro.

Anyways for you question,I have a suburban also and was thinking about a 383 with a RV cam.:HMMM:If you are staying with a 350 you will looking for low compresion,and a RV cam.
11-30-2005, 07:26 PM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by dcoffield
Group hug.........hey, which one of you grabbed my ass!:eek:

DO YOU LIKE MOVIES ABOUT GLADIATORS? I'LL TELL YOU RIGHT NOW I AM NOT GRABBING ANYONE'S ASS.:LOL:
11-30-2005, 07:31 PM
dcoffield

Quote:

Originally posted by erik erikson
DO YOU LIKE MOVIES ABOUT GLADIATORS? I'LL TELL YOU RIGHT NOW I AM NOT GRABBING ANYONE'S ASS.:LOL:

:p This from the guy who suggested the group thing.;)
11-30-2005, 07:35 PM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by dcoffield
:p This from the guy who suggested the group thing.;)

YOU REALLY DON'T KNOW WHAT TO SAY DO YOU?O.K. I THINK WE HAVE REALLY CROSSED THE LINE NOW AND WE HAD BETTER TURN BACK.I STILL LOVE YOU MAN. L.O.L.:LOL:
11-30-2005, 07:37 PM
dcoffield

Turning back....lets talk about Suburbans!:3dSMILE:
12-01-2005, 12:33 AM
camaro_fever68

WHEW, THIS SHOULD HAVE BEEN THE STEAM ENGINE THREAD WITH ALL THIS VENTING!!!

I GOTTA SAY THE POWER STROKE AND CHEVY 2500HD IS THE COMBO DREAMS IS MADE OF. CAN'T BUY IT, MAY AS WELL BUILD IT.

Now for the real thread, I know you didn't like the stroking idea but I think you should give it some more thought. I is so cheap to build and the extra torque is great. All you would have to do is buy the 190.00 dollar crank and stroker pistons and do everything else the same as you listed. You would pick up an extra 50 ft.lbs no problem. Call Comp Tech line for a cam and you will have a great pulling truck that won't break a sweat or your wallet for years to come. NO SUBSTITUTE FOR CUBES...can't be stressed enough when it comes to pulling torque.
12-01-2005, 03:31 AM
MainCap

You might want to check out GM Performance Parts HT 383 for some parts specification ideas -

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...101-P7C53.aspx

Also Speedomotive's HT 383 - http://www.speedomotive.com/

I've been researching the 383 idea for my '94 Suburban K1500, currently equipped with a TBI 350. I don't think dropping in a stroker crank is as simple as it sounds due to crank/skirt and rod/cam clearancing requirements, however; purchasing a built 383 short/long block seems competitive to rebuilding the 350.

I'm planning a late model 1pc main seal 4 bolt 383 short block with 9.1 - 9.6cr, iron Vortec heads, GMPP aluminum TBI Vortec manifold, Edelbrock shorty headers with EGR adapter, roller cam spec'd for computer control and torque to 4500-5000RPM, roller rockers, and a new larger throttle body and pump from Extreme EFI - http://www.xtremefi.com/

I will likely only port match the manifold to the heads and maybe clean up the heads around the valves.

Should pass emissions and be able to get over 400ftlbs from 2000 - 4500 rpm.

I too am still looking at alternatives though.

PS: I also have a Powerstroke Ford one ton 4x4 pickup and believe International Harvester beat GM's Suburban to the market with an SUV known as the Travelall.

Cheers!
12-01-2005, 07:59 AM
30-A Rider

Big truck thanks for the suggestion on letting it go. I never was holding a grudge. I was simply being a wise ass just like the orig comment made back; and never was it intended to offend anyone or piss anyone off. It was my wise ass reply that all of a sudden had others on here jump my shit like I did something wrong, and a lot of assumption from veterans were made. If anyone was to go back and look at any of my previous posts, on any thread on here, I was always thankful, appretiative and respectful to those I was asking advice from. Never did I come off like a know it all, and always listened full well knowing there is always something to be learned from the experienced minds on here. Johnny O, Pat Mc and tech inspector have all been people who have previously helped me out, and again always appretiated their input. Looking at my original post nowhere was I being wise or looking to start any shit. If my joking back and being a wise ass back with veterans on here is my being disrespectful, or pisses them off, then oh well. If anyone on here wants to joke Im fine with that, but then they should expect it back. If people on here are gonna jump all over my ass when clearly my posts are not intended to offensive, then Im gonna give them shit right back, and again its not personal as I have never met anyone on here or know anyone well enough to pass judgement... but, I am nobodys victim. If my sticking up for myself whether is be joking back or it turns to insults is gonna cause this backlash from veterans then so be it, as Im not going to take somebodys shit cause Im rather new, and they are a regular. Again though thanks for the recomendation.

Camaro fever and Main cap thanks again for the stroker recomendation. It is something I have researched quite a bit. I think any stroker crank is gonna require some extra machine work to clear the rods at the bottom of the cylinders. Although the cost difference is not excessive, my truck did and does just fine pulling from idle to 3000 rpm, therefore although I would never complain about more bottom end, my problem is mid range power. I am overall happy with the displacement...I think the motor was just built relatively weak from the factory in the overall power department. I think bringing up my compression to around 9:1 vs the stock 8.5, cleaning up the exhaust and intake runners and in the bowls of the heads, new SS valves, new springs and rockers, and an RV type truck cam coupled with some headers is gonna do the trick as others have suggested. Again piston type matierial I am very open to suggestion (is it worth going to a hypereutectic, and or maybe forged any benefit?) Finally again I already have a 3" high flow cat and cat back exhaust, but would really love to do a true dual bolt on system if anyone knows of a manufacturer. If I had access to a pipe bender Id do a custom sytem myself, but is not an option. In addition if anyone has any suggestions for upgrades on the trans rebuild to make it more stout I welcome them. The trans on my truck has never been rebuilt, and although shows no sign of blowing at a well maintained 230K I cant help but think its days are numbered, especially behind a fresh motor...while the motor is out I may tackle that job as well.
12-01-2005, 08:14 AM
Dave Severson

IMO the hypereutectics are well worth the extra money. The clearances are different for piston to wall clearance, might want to make sure your machinist is aware of this. I put a set of the Keith Black pistons in an engine a few years back, they are still working great. If you upgrade to the hypereutectic pistons, might want to consider the good zero gap second ring too, cost a bit more but well worth the expense IMO.

Dual cats and big exhaust is definitely the way to go, definitely frees up the exhaust. Before you tie up a bunch of money in your heads, might want to consider a set of Vortec heads, others have said they make great low end torque.

As far as the cam, I usually fill out one of the tech sheets for the cam company and go with their recomendation. I use Comp Cams, but I'm sure the other companies offer the same service.

For just a few more bucks while you have everything apart, might want to consider balancing the rotating assembly. Then of course a quality timing chain and gears, oil pump, etc. should all be part of the build. Roller rockers are also a good investment on any engine, they reduce friction and free up a few more ponies.

After all those miles, a good radiator clean and inspection, along with a high flow water pump and thermostat would also be in order.
12-01-2005, 11:07 AM
30-A Rider

Thank you for the suggestions.
12-01-2005, 03:31 PM
lt1s10

1 Attachment(s)

later!
12-01-2005, 03:38 PM
firebird45331

geeze we're a happy crowd
12-01-2005, 03:43 PM
lt1s10

Quote:

Originally posted by firebird45331
geeze we're a happy crowd

hard to get a hug around here. :HMMM:
12-05-2005, 06:26 AM
res ipsa

1. Port the stock heads. Reasons why appear here. Keep the stock valve size, but make sure they are backcut.

2. If you want to go with a roller lifter then get the entire set from a junkyard Caprice/Roadmaster/OldsCustomCruiser wagon, in any year from 1989-1996. I say wagon because they are probably well maintained; any other TBI v8 car will also have the same roller lifters but more questionable maintenance.... especially a copcar Caprice.

3. If you stay with flat tappet, I suppose you could use a new cam but I would not stray much from the stock specs, because you will gain a lot from the head porting so you don't need a hotter cam. Especially if part throttle performance, and towing, are important to you.

4. If you go with roller lifters, use the 1994-1996 Caprice LT1 camshaft; this is also the one used in 1996-1999 Vortec L31 engines. It's perfect for a truck application, and it was good enough with the iron LT1 to make 260 fwhp and 330 fw ftlbs.

5. Keep the TBI. Port the intake manifold, especially the lower plenum runners (lower plenum don't flow as well as the upper).

6. Try to add the best dual exhaust + low restriction cats you can find. This coupled with an engine that breathes really well will make an awesome street/towing performer.

7. Make your own ducted cold air filter. See this thread for ideas:

http://impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ult...c;f=9;t=001945

See this thread for general info on TBI engine mods/maintenance:

http://impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ult...;f=33;t=009021

FYI, your existing LO5 engine was rated at approx 210 fwhp and 300 ftlbs. You should be looking at 270-280 fwhp and 350+ fw ftlbs if you do the above. HTH.
12-05-2005, 08:00 AM
MadMax

First of all, a great hug to everybody who reads this thread. (seems to be the way to start a reply on this thread :D )

OK, back to you engine problem:

I would get some good heads and aim for 64cc chambers, and around 180 cc intake runner volume. Make sure to get good flowing 180s, like Dart or World. Or stay with GM parts and go either Vortec (you will need a new intake manifold to fit the different bolt pattern), which are the best flowing GM-produced heads in that category, or if you want to stay non-Vortec go with 041/186/492 style GM heads. They're very good for truck use. Whatever you do, stay iron.

Go for as many rollers as your money will buy. Best bet is hydraulic roller cam kit and roller rockers. Reducing friction is ALWAYS a good idea. Then you can go a little higher on the compression, which brings your efficiency up. Try to stay under 10:1 static CR, aim for like 9.4-9.7 : 1. To do so get flat top hypereutectic pistons. In my opinion there's no justification at all anymore for non-hyper. Hypers are very cheap and last almost for ever. They expand less that non-hyper or forged pistons when they get hot, so they can be run on tighter clearances and the rings will make a better seal (corrected this one, Erik :) ). Forged won't get you any further improvements in a street engine, but they will cost much more.
Check all clearances before you go to the machine shop. Chances are the crank won't need grinding at all yet, so you can save some money. Polishing the journals might be enough. Just the same with the block, maybe it doesn't need flattening, but reboring and honing will turn out to be necessary. Flat tops get better squish, which improves the burning process and lays off detonation, so you can in 98% of cases go to 10:1 before detonation. Stay safely under that and stay on pump gas. This way you should be OK.
The reason I say go for roller is this: A roller cam creates a larger area under the valve-lift-curve, which means it lets in more mixture without the need for fast-wearing high lift rockers and stiffer springs. It also compensates for the short duration which you want to create torque low down. I'm just building a 350 (bored to 360) for my G20 van, which is weightwise similar and also my driving needs are similar to yours.
This will be my setup:
492 GM heads (recond, bronze guides, 2.02/1.60 valves, backcut, chamber deshrouded and bowl hogged, large valves only because I happened to get hold of the heads like this)
Crane hydraulic roller cam XR258HR-10 SBC (wont fit your application, because your block is newer, but you could aim for something similar)
stock 4 bolt block
probably KB or similar pistons, flat top with 2 reliefs (4 reliefs would disturb the quench area a bit)
Intake is a Edelbrock performer (not RPM) with a Edelbrock 600 cfm carb (this is where your system differs greatly from mine, which might well affect your choice of camshaft, if you want to stick with the TBI (call comp, crane etc. for their advice on cams). The TBI will compensate for heads with little swirl and you can get chips to change the mixture per RPM, flow-wise you will be similar)
Trans is also a 700, with B&M clutches and Kevlar band, lower oil pan and extra cooler, also I installed a shift kit to keep the clutch pressure in low RPMs up and a 13 vane rotor to even pump flow. Along with a beast sun gear shell and new steels this trans rebuild cost me well under 400 bucks and is easily strong enough for the weight of my van. (When you rebuil a trans make sure to put the chekc balls in the right places and to tune your trans to the vehicle weight! Then even a 700 will last for ever).
And yes: building a stroker will get you more torque, but it might invalidate your emissions test and it is a bit of a problem for a first time builder. I wouldn't do it, but that's just my opinion.
For Exhaust I have full length headers (not shortys), from then on 2.5 inch dual exhaust (with H-Pipe, no cat, though). I built it myself from 2.5 inch stainless piping I found at my local scrap yard, when a factory near here was wrecking its cooling system. Hardly cost anything and I could cut out all the bends and straight bits I needed and only had to weld them together. Works fine, lasts for ever and even looks good if you run over it with a power-brush.
That should get you a little more torque across the whole RPM-band and shift useable RPMS up the line a bit for passing and "fun". But don't expect to run higher than 5000 RPM on this engine.
Hope i could help you, good luck for your project
Mad
12-05-2005, 08:27 AM
30-A Rider

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. By the way for those who mentioned emissions...there is no inspection and/or emissions testing in Florida.