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I have excessive clatter on the #3 intake or exhaust valve to the point where the engine dies for a second. I tried to set the rocker to specs and it goes a way but comes back...... any ideas what this might be..... the head was rebuilt 5000 miles ago.... new roller lifters and rocker arms and push rods
The vehicle is a 1988 formula 305 tbi and help would be great
Kenny
p.s 60 psi when i start the pig and between 15 to 20 at idle a 500rpm which has to be raised to 600 rpm
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Pressed-in rocker studs may be pulling out of the head :eek:
Check the studs like tech said, but are you checking the compression with the motor running, or am i reading it wrong?Quote:
Originally posted by drumsk
I have excessive clatter on the #3 intake or exhaust valve to the point where the engine dies for a second. I tried to set the rocker to specs and it goes a way but comes back...... any ideas what this might be..... the head was rebuilt 5000 miles ago.... new roller lifters and rocker arms and push rods
The vehicle is a 1988 formula 305 tbi and help would be great
Kenny
p.s 60 psi when i start the pig and between 15 to 20 at idle a 500rpm which has to be raised to 600 rpm
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Have not done a compression check all around yet...........
the stud maybe be pulling out becuase the tick went away for a week and came back but I also added marvel mystery oil
I am running a crane cam and a set of crane lifters........
Kenny
if this this a roller cam engine? i think it sound like a stud like tech said
OK the 60 psi is oil pressure.
Lay a straight-edge across the top of the studs and you'll be able to see if any are pulling out.
how do i fix it if the stud is pulling out........... head has to come off.......... which is not a big deal I put the engine together............
only has 5000 miles on her besides the ticking she was running great and a slight exhaust leak
how good are you with a hand drill and a tap you can drill and tap it but you have to be rigth on and do not get chips in the engineQuote:
Originally posted by drumsk
how do i fix it if the stud is pulling out........... head has to come off.......... which is not a big deal I put the engine together............
only has 5000 miles on her besides the ticking she was running great and a slight exhaust leak
drive it back down to where its suppose to be and drill it and install a roll pin in it. be carful not to get any shavings down in the motorQuote:
Originally posted by drumsk
how do i fix it if the stud is pulling out........... head has to come off.......... which is not a big deal I put the engine together............
only has 5000 miles on her besides the ticking she was running great and a slight exhaust leak
well I am work as a mechanic for a fueling company at newark airport. So I am quite good with a drill plus I like to restore old car's(69 firebird, 67 t-bird) so roll pin and drill ehhhh..... should I use a right angle dill or will a normal drill do? Also can I go in on a 90 or do i go in on an angle.......
I have enclosed a pic of my car tell me what you think
I just had her painted
you can pin it. but you can buy a stud and tap the head this may be a better way to goQuote:
Originally posted by drumsk
well I am work as a mechanic for a fueling company at newark airport. So I am quite good with a drill plus I like to restore old car's(69 firebird, 67 t-bird) so roll pin and drill ehhhh..... should I use a right angle dill or will a normal drill do? Also can I go in on a 90 or do i go in on an angle.......
I have enclosed a pic of my car tell me what you think
I just had her painted
car still has to be buffed out by the man that painted it
is this something a local pats house would have...........
Kenny
yes they did have them dorman had them they were just a stud fine on top and coarse on the bottom and i do not think you had to drill it out much to tap it car looks very good
nice looking ride drumsk! let us know how the drilling and tapping goes.Quote:
Originally posted by drumsk
well I am work as a mechanic for a fueling company at newark airport. So I am quite good with a drill plus I like to restore old car's(69 firebird, 67 t-bird) so roll pin and drill ehhhh..... should I use a right angle dill or will a normal drill do? Also can I go in on a 90 or do i go in on an angle.......
I have enclosed a pic of my car tell me what you think
I just had her painted
If it isn't the stud pulling then you have a cam lobe going away.
DOES IT POP OUT THE INTAKE OR EXHAUST?Quote:
Originally posted by drumsk
I have excessive clatter on the #3 intake or exhaust valve to the point where the engine dies for a second. I tried to set the rocker to specs and it goes a way but comes back...... any ideas what this might be..... the head was rebuilt 5000 miles ago.... new roller lifters and rocker arms and push rods
The vehicle is a 1988 formula 305 tbi and help would be great
Kenny
p.s 60 psi when i start the pig and between 15 to 20 at idle a 500rpm which has to be raised to 600 rpm
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negative..................
it the stud is not starting to pull out , put a vacume gage on it. now depending on how wild a came you have the vacume should be pretty steady. if not then there is a good chance a valve is sticking or the lifter has started to colaps
this sound good dozzer. this is a roller cam and i do not think the cam lobe is going it is a valve guid lifter or the stud coming outQuote:
Originally posted by dozzer
it the stud is not starting to pull out , put a vacume gage on it. now depending on how wild a came you have the vacume should be pretty steady. if not then there is a good chance a valve is sticking or the lifter has started to colaps
gonna take a look in a few moments
they look like there all the same height but i have to pull all the rocker arms off and take a look but what I did notice is that I adjust the rocker arms to where they quiet up and then she reach's operating temperature and they start ticking again does this make any sense............ I'm lost if the cam was worn she would be f==ked all the time this start once she warms up and will not stop could coolant leak in the under the intake manifold cause this???????? if it was one rock arm ok but i found 3 or four different ones loose........... maybe an oil passage clogged or coolant thinning out the oil on the top end. also noticed alond of rusty color slime on the left valve cover on the inside and now some thick brown looking stuff.............. oh well thats tonights observation..............
"Brown stuff" sounds like coolant in the oil, that can cause even a roller lifter to fail. Something is going away to cause the slack, right? Lifter, pushrod,rocker arm or valve stem are the only options. I assume you've checked the last three. You already seem to have ruled out the pulled stud thing.
if this is a steel core gm cam roller cam mud in the oil will not make it fail the gm cam are very tuff they are harden steel cores some cam manufacturers use iron core on hyd roller cores but a lot of them use steel harden cores and the lifter rolls over the cam less friction .so i thing the rod bearings would go out before the cam. the mud may raise hell with the lifter valveing i would think somthing in the engine is cracked may be a head with a bad vavle seat that came lose it needs ot come down antfreezes will take out the bearings
there appears to be no coolant in the oil pan or on the dipstick but..... my next move is to remove the intake manifold and see what is going on......... and move on from there......
that slime sound's like coolant mixing with oil....ok we had a valve tick now a sludge problem...not good...stop..you said you adjust lifter then warmed up engine tick came back....did you prime them before installing , then set zero lash plus 1/2 turn. A lifter does not have to be dished in to go bad. the internal seals or spring can be smashed . At this point the sludge would get the lead in problem fixing. I woukld take it there is no steam so the mix is in a head or block water passage.. Pull off heads and check gaskets good ,then head and block. that sludge got to the valve cover by being pumped up there so the stuff is in the pan also .Check the heads and block with a straight edge. If the head or block is warped or not machined straight for some reason that will give both your problem a reason to happen. The head may be flexing as it heads up due to a warp. . chances .05 % lol
when I put the lifters in 3000 miles ago i soaked them in oil over night then put them in..............You recommend pulling both head off...... the problem is only on the left side. I had taken the block to a machinist to have him check out the block he told me everything was cool with it....... the heads had had 2000 miles prior..................... but I guess if Im gonna go as far as pulling the one head off i mind as well pull off the other............. I was figuring that the intake manifold might be leaking down from one of the corner ports................ I am running crane roller lifters and a crane 2020 roller cam....... mind you only only side is out of wack with adjustment.......the other side seems to be okay..... but since I have an exhaust leak that I have been putting off.......
an exhaust stud that keep on spinning......doh but a good inspection should be done at this point as I eat up about a gallon of coolant a month..................
HERE IS ANOTHER IDEA.IF HE LOST A PLUG BEHIND THE CAM GEAR THAT MIGHT BLEED OF ENOUGH OIL PRESSURE FROM THE TOP END THAT MIGHT START THE LIFTERS TO CLATTER.YOU NEVER SAID WHAT SIDE OF THE ENGINE IT WAS ON.DID YOU NOTICE ANY CHANGE IN OIL PRESSURE?
just pulled the intake off and found that all the studs are level... The engine was rebuilt 3000 miles ago by me............. reused the old cam but only had 70000 miles on it ......... according to crane its good for 200,000 miles............ here's my question is it possible that the intake gasket was leaking coolant into the lifter valley and causing my coolant leak and possibly my lifter problem?
btw there was a good amount of steam coming from the lifter are when the engine was running
Any help would be appreciated
don't want to pull the heads off for no reason
Kenny
like i said. i would take it down some of the small block crack in the lifter valley .did you put sealer on the head bolts? when you built it ?you need to find were the the leak is coming from and go from there. coolant is bad stuff the lifter may have be come sticky
was planning on taking each plug out and pressurizing each cylinder with 90 psi to check for leaks............ If I hear a leak then that will justify breaking down the engine further...........
atleast I think thats a smart way to go.....
you said you used the old cam on the rebuild ? did you put each lifter back in the same hole so it was with the original cam lobe. a coolant leak from the intake can leak into the lifter gally and if you had alot of steam from the it's a good place to start, though a water passage in a head gasket can do the same . Question is why did it leak.
this may not tell you much if the block is crack some were you can not see it .the rings will pass some of the psi and dozzer this is a roller cam engine the lifters can go any were on the camQuote:
Originally posted by drumsk
was planning on taking each plug out and pressurizing each cylinder with 90 psi to check for leaks............ If I hear a leak then that will justify breaking down the engine further...........
atleast I think thats a smart way to go.....
I ran into this problem recently on a friends car. His stud pulled out completely though. I ordered him a stud puller and tap kit out of Jeg's for under $20.00 and we changed all of them. The tool made it simple to do and we had no problems. The heads stayed on and we layed out shop towels to catch any debris. When getting screw in studs, be sure to order the right ones.
WOW.....I SKIPPED TWO PAGES OF TEXT....SORRY
It sounds like you have an oiling problem. You really need to check those plugs in front the engine because you would never know by looking at the oil pressure if one was missing. Pressure port is at the back of the lifter bores. Also need to make sure oil restrictors are not installed in back of block. Small chevy is bad about intake leaking water into lifter valley but your oil would have to be very milky for that to affect your lifter performance. If your intake is leaking between two middle cylinders it will evaporate a lot of the evidence of the leakage. Another question to you is Are your locks holding? You may have to install a girdle.. Works very well for solid roller.