Its been my dream to get the front end off the ground in my 78 nova.. im building a 383 stroker motor.. what are some good tips to help me achieve this goal...How much power is enough to achieve this with the right setup?
Thanks Justin
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Its been my dream to get the front end off the ground in my 78 nova.. im building a 383 stroker motor.. what are some good tips to help me achieve this goal...How much power is enough to achieve this with the right setup?
Thanks Justin
First off we need to know some more info on what parts you have on the 383 right now and what tranny you are using and any/all the other info as well. To lift the wheels off the ground takes a lot of power and the right set up for traction. Power doesn't mean nothing if you can't hook the tires to the ground... Good luck!
you could lift the tires, you need traction and lots of power, 4.11 gears will do it best. The Nova will need at least traction bars if it has rear leafs. You are going to have lots of things happen if you get the tires off the ground, being you need so much torque, that torque travles through the driveshaft and some of it is exzerted on the rear end and actully twist's the rear end up, and in affect also the entire body, what might happen is your gonna try to get your tires up, they do/ don't whatever but you get positive hookup, you could essentially crack the windshield from the flex. you will need frame stiffeners or a cage so it don't flex like that.
yes, i have that dream too. I want to do it with my 72 el camino though...I think it might be a little bit harder because the wheel base is longer....
The 383 motor has kb .100 dome pistons .060 over and h beam rods.. moly rings.. cam is undecided yet i want to go with a solid roller.. thats what the heads are set up for.. the heads are aluminum bowtie 049 heads with 55 cc chambers and 2.08 1.60 ferrea valves.. pretty ported out.. workin on polishing them.. ive been thinking about goin with the bowtie intake to match the .200 raised runners on the heads.. i have a 150 NOS kit but im not sure the silvolite pistons will take it for long.. i have hooker super comp headers and carb im waiting on also.. it should be pretty free flowing and being a 383 it hopefully will be able to pull some R's... My last pretty stock 383 pulled 6700 i was pretty impressed for what it was.. Im thinkin about tubbing my car and putting a 4 link in with a 6 point or bigger cage.. i think this will make it launch hard and straight compared to the unibody.. my trans in a th350 which i built myself and just put a kit in it and clutches.. took out a few springs to make it shift better and put on a stall.. well thats all i can think of for now.. thanks for showing interest..
Stroker_383
You will need a lot of torque,gear,a much looser stall,and a trans brake.A tubbed car will make it easier.Quote:
Originally posted by Stroke_this383
The 383 motor has kb .100 dome pistons .060 over and h beam rods.. moly rings.. cam is undecided yet i want to go with a solid roller.. thats what the heads are set up for.. the heads are aluminum bowtie 049 heads with 55 cc chambers and 2.08 1.60 ferrea valves.. pretty ported out.. workin on polishing them.. ive been thinking about goin with the bowtie intake to match the .200 raised runners on the heads.. i have a 150 NOS kit but im not sure the silvolite pistons will take it for long.. i have hooker super comp headers and carb im waiting on also.. it should be pretty free flowing and being a 383 it hopefully will be able to pull some R's... My last pretty stock 383 pulled 6700 i was pretty impressed for what it was.. Im thinkin about tubbing my car and putting a 4 link in with a 6 point or bigger cage.. i think this will make it launch hard and straight compared to the unibody.. my trans in a th350 which i built myself and just put a kit in it and clutches.. took out a few springs to make it shift better and put on a stall.. well thats all i can think of for now.. thanks for showing interest..
Stroker_383
Lots of weight in the trunk!
how much was that kit for your tranny???
Well.... Only thing I can say is I see you said NOS? Well anyway's, I wouldn't run that junk in a 383. If anything go with a supercharger/blower instead. Me myself I like naturally aspirated and if not then blown but that's about it. That nitrous stuff just costs too much money to keep the motor lasing and your motor wont last as long. That's my oppinion at least but I have never used nitrous, I just hear your motor wont last as long with it even if you have pistons and rods FOR nitrous.
The trans kit was some stuff i had laying around and if you have some access to a machine shop you just mill down you pistons in your trans to put more clutch discs in along with steels.. otherwise for a decent motor just get a shift kit which is under 50 bucks for a decent one..
Stroker
B&M is a decent shift kit. Don't need some top dollar one. Pretty much like my local tranny guy said, they are pretty much all alike besides some are for towing, others for strip...
I don't think I would want a shift kit for anything I'm gonna drive daily unless it served a purpose for towing or such.
They have shift kits for towing and then ones for strip and street. They don't shift much harder. Plus they say that a shift kit makes firm shifts which in turn makes the tranny last longer. Now that part I don't know if it's true, I heard it on Trucks, Horsepower TV, etc. A shift kit doesn't shift real hard or nothing, just a nice firm shift, I like em.
there are some shift kits that make better shifts and there not bad, but then theres the shift kits that are out and out hard shifting, and in turn neck snappers. If the clutches are snapping closed fast, I would assume that would be kind of hard on there physical stability, but not on the friction material, where as if there slipping a little, the friction material would wear out faster but there physical strength would stay ok.Quote:
Originally posted by FMXhellraiser
They have shift kits for towing and then ones for strip and street. They don't shift much harder. Plus they say that a shift kit makes firm shifts which in turn makes the tranny last longer. Now that part I don't know if it's true, I heard it on Trucks, Horsepower TV, etc. A shift kit doesn't shift real hard or nothing, just a nice firm shift, I like em.
Not sure... I never seen a shift kit that was neck snapping. That is what I wanted on my 66, I asked the guy to get me one that shifts hard and it does ok but not what I expected... My 85 has a shift kit in it and shifts a tad firmer from 1st to second but that's it....
Yeah like a couple FoMoCo 351'sQuote:
Originally posted by R Pope
Lots of weight in the trunk!
TO: all it takes is money.. Yea you can forget about the FOMOCO 351's id rather not get my tires off the ground than haul around some ford motors.. but thanks for the advice!!
Stroke_this383
Corvette64---Haha! My 351's are good for something, eh?
2 things i'd like to say.
1. Don't do NOS. It's just really costly in the end, sure you spend $1,500 more on a Supercharger, but for one it's ALWAYS there and you don't have to hit a button or remembering filling up a bottle and it's ALOT more stable.
I've got a friend with a 00' (i know i know) neon, and he has it running 12s N/A (auto 3spd..these trannies hold 500hp easy) but he has hit the NOS (75 shot) 3 times...and well..1 time he blew a motor, the 2nd time he ruined his transmission, and the 3rd time..he blew his built NOS ready bottom end. $1,800 later..he's still having problems with the NOS..every time he hits it SOMETHING happens, ran into him at Discount Auto parts one day..and he had a list of codes about 25 long...all came on once he hit his NOS. Just seems bad. lol.
2. The shift kit. My other friend (helped me drop a sbc into my nova) He has a 93 mustang 5.0 with 4.11 gears, a built-up auto trans and a pretty much stock motor (cold air intake is really the only thing) the guy he bought it from built the car..and it shifts SOOOO freakin hard. Just under normal driving, it just slams you back into your seat..i thought his tranny blewup the first time i rode in it. lol. But when it shifts under hard acceleration..whew..heh it really goes.
Dallas
1970 Nova - blew the i6/powerglide, now runnin 83' 305/TH350
1968 Dart 270- 318 block, 273 topend, Factory Working A/C & P/S
NOS I guess is nice if you have the motor built for it but I wouldn't wanna waste my money on it... Junk to me.
eh, i'm still leary with NOS because even with an engine built specifically for that, it's just kinda unstable, but if you can make it work! go for it man. I won't risk it lol..sucks having your only "hot rod/project" also being your daily driver.
Dallas
NITROUS BABY!!!! WHEEWWW
I think im goin to go with the nitrous, a supercharger i just dont have the money for now, dont get me wrong if i had a supercharger it would be the way to go.. but yea not goin to happen.. ill keep yall updated... or how about nitrous and a supercharger??? huh.. crazy dude
Stroker
Nitrous AND a supercharger? LMAO, that's a little overboard don't you think? Supercharger in the end will be cheaper, especially if your motors not build for nitrous then you will be screwing parts up left and right and in the end it will cost you more money. I watched some drag races on TV and they guys were racing with small block Chevy's and a guy with a small block Ford and they said they used to build their engines for nitrous but even their built motors would last only a few events and have tons of problems and now they switched to a supercharger and it's cheaper, more reliable and lasts longer with more power.
Just something to take into consideration. Also if this is a everyday driver or something (I can't remember what you said) then neither is a good idea IMO.
Honestly, I'd stick with a supercharger, sure nitrous is cheap now..$600-800 for the kit...that's $1,200 less than a supercharger. but then you hit the bottle and need a refill $50-$100.....hit it 3 times...$300 or so.. depending on bottle size of course.
Plus, a thrown rod, a cracked piston, a blown headgasket, a fried tranny..this and that and the other..well, you've used nitrous appox 5 times and have spent $3000 getting your car back to the way it WAS.
Supercharger, you get adjustable pulleys..use an 8psi for daily driving, use 12psi at the track. or more. Any changing a pulley is easy..plus you can get a silent or loud s/c. Plus you ALWAYS run your E/T..not just when you got the bottle in and full...so if you pull up to a vette and he wants to race for slips..you can win it and won't be saying "uhh..i would but i'm not properly equipped today" haha.
You could always go with a 638 Merlin Bigblock with 3 superchargers?
I know a guy with a chevy celebrity that's got a big block and 3 superchargers. :D low 9s consistently. now that's bad ass
If you want to get the tires off the ground cheaply.....Put a high stall convertor in it....3800-4200
Tie the subframe...adjust pinion angle....heck even a stock motor with that much convertor could lift a tire....
Now if you want to lift em and run the numbers....thats a whole nother story....
How are thos mini blowers like the B&M 144 theres one on ebay right now with heads and a carb for 650 bucks... or should it be something like a 6-71..? What kind of compression should you run with a blower..? There is goin to be over 13:1 in the 383 so im sure it will have to be lowered but what is the max you can have before cylinder pressure is too much with a blower?
And i am thinkin about buildin the 638 with 3 superchargers!! RIIIIGGGHHHT!!! lol
Stroker!!
13:1 is way too high, especially for a blower. I don't know what the highest you can have is with one but that is too high. My guess would be 9.5:1 but that is just a guess. I have always wondered this though too so I can't wait to see what some people say here.
8:1 if you want to run any 8-10 LBS of boost, 13:1 is way too much. if you had 9.5:1 you could get away with probably 5 pounds of boost. 13:1 would probably blow the head gaskets when you revved it... or worse.