engine swap (350, 383, or 400?)

Printable View

09-19-2005, 02:25 PM
delmar6189

engine swap (350, 383, or 400?)

i currently have a stock 305 in my 1986 pontiac grand prix and i was wondering what would be the best engine swap for my car. its going to be a daily driver but also occasionally raced (weekend racer). im trying to choose between a 350, 383, or a 400. i thought a 400 would be the best because its the biggest chevy SB but i have people telling me to get a 350 because its a great street engine and theres also people telling me to build a 383. i never got a real straightforward answer on what to do so im hoping someone can give me good advice and help me with this desicion. i would appreciate all advice and suggestions. thanks. :D

BTW, this is the link for my car... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/727012/2
09-19-2005, 02:33 PM
Matt167

It is basicly your choice because they all have wins and losses in there own ways. a 400 engine is somthing me personally wouldn't bother with, because of the siamesed bore's and steam holes in the heads, people do build them up sucessfully. a 383 is going to lend you lots of low end torque and lots of power because it has a large rotating mass, as a 383 is a stroker. a 350 can be built up also, probably the best if you want a daily driver.
09-19-2005, 02:40 PM
R Pope

For reliability, you can't beat factory parts. A 400 in your car would be a torque monster, and you won't have to go to a lower rear gear. Leave the 383's to the big buck guys who want to brag about how much money they've spent on their ride, a 400 will respond to exactly the same mods with more power. You can't beat cubic inches!
09-19-2005, 03:43 PM
techinspector1

I agree. It's silly to start with a smaller motor and spend more money to make the same power that you could with spending just a few bucks on a 400 small block. More cubic inches equals more power.

A 400 with 9.0:1 compression, a mild cam such as this http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?s...52&lvl=2&prt=5 and a good set of heads such as these http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Cyli...ds/Vortec.html will make a great motor
09-19-2005, 03:55 PM
gassersrule_196

none of thee above:LOL: **)
09-19-2005, 04:19 PM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by Matt167
It is basicly your choice because they all have wins and losses in there own ways. a 400 engine is somthing me personally wouldn't bother with, because of the siamesed bore's and steam holes in the heads, people do build them up sucessfully. a 383 is going to lend you lots of low end torque and lots of power because it has a large rotating mass, as a 383 is a stroker. a 350 can be built up also, probably the best if you want a daily driver.

The 383/400 debate keeps going.What Matt167 says really takes care of it for me.Sorry 400 boy's and girl's.If any one is intrested the last time I built a 400 I went through 4 of them to I finally got one good one.The rest of them sit around the shop and make conversation piece's.Any of you 400 people want them?The best one only has a 2.5 inch crack in the lifter valley.L.O.L:LOL:
10-02-2005, 06:52 PM
91camaro

383 is a rare build, you honestly dont see too many around, at least where im from
10-02-2005, 07:19 PM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by 91camaro
383 is a rare build, you honestly dont see too many around, at least where im from

Are you kidding?
10-02-2005, 07:28 PM
91camaro

where im from we really dont see anyone with a motor like that, i have never seen a built one
10-02-2005, 07:38 PM
erik erikson

It uses a 400 stroke 3.75 with a main size the same as a stock 350.Sometimes you have to grind on the block to get the rods to clear.This depends on the length of rods you run and the brand and also the style.(Core shift) will also affect the amount of grinding you have to do.You also have to grind a small amount off the head of the connnecting rod bolt to get them to clear the cam.On all the 383's I have built I always get a small base circle cam so I have a little less to grind on the head of the con rod bolt.
10-03-2005, 04:59 PM
91camaro

about how much horsepower will a 383 put out
10-03-2005, 05:04 PM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by 91camaro
about how much horsepower will a 383 put out

How much do you want?
10-04-2005, 12:10 PM
CIzA5IHIOvIzId3

First of all, my opinions is go with the 350, with not alot of experience about cars you will find plenty of parts and its easy to work on, and second lol 400 is hardly the biggest smallblock, Third youl probly want to work on some other things to make the car able to safely handle the power, 1 being suspension,wheels and tires, 2 being well there is no 2.
10-04-2005, 12:57 PM
robot

Did you see the ending to the movie "Deep Throat"? Why would you want something smaller unless there was a cost issue? Torque is king on the street, max RPM is a rare item. IF you can find a 400 that is in good shape to rebuild, the parts cost is comparable to the 350...... think of it, if you had a 300 cubic inch
engine and someone would offer you 50 cubes for the same price, would you take it? darn sure you would

Put the 305 valve covers on it and pretend it's a 305!!!
10-05-2005, 09:53 AM
juggalo

your motor

the heck with all of them motor get you a 327 youll be much happier
10-05-2005, 10:25 AM
rumrumm

Some things to consider:

It is getting increasingly more difficult to find a good 400 block, and they are much more prone to cracks than a 350 block. A 2-bolt main 400 block is stronger than a 4-bolt main block. Don't be surprised if the first couple of blocks you find will be unusable.

The cost of building a 400 or 383 is about the same. But you will have to drill steam holes in whatever heads you use on a 400. People that don't, or fail to use a 400 head gasket, will have cooling issues.

It is better to use 5.7 or 6 inch connecting rods in a 400 as there will be less side load on the cylinders, and you can get a more efficient combustion chamber burn with the longer rods. For ultimate performance Smokey Yunick recommended stuffing the longer connecting rod you can fit into an engine.
10-05-2005, 12:05 PM
dr_bowtie

Heck.... go for broke

Get a second job....work the whole year....Order one of the big bore Motown small blocks....build a 454cu in small block....with good heads (Motown) you can get near 700hp....or shoot max it out to 470 plus inches and just go nuts....

did I type that out loud.....?;)
10-05-2005, 12:09 PM
CIzA5IHIOvIzId3

Not to mention the 400 Has major cooling problems sence the bore is so large that there is no place for cooling passeges between either 2 or 4 of the cilinders so it creates uneven cooling and power... or so ive heard.
10-05-2005, 12:23 PM
dr_bowtie

not true....I have done a lot of 400's....you just have to factor that in when selecting the cam to build less cylinder heat where you don't want it....
10-05-2005, 12:48 PM
gassersrule_196

has anyone read hot rod mag's dream engine winner article yet? i think it was well chosen:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :3dSMILE:
10-05-2005, 12:51 PM
dr_bowtie

no do you have a link.....?
10-05-2005, 06:53 PM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by CIzA5IHIOvIzId3
Not to mention the 400 Has major cooling problems sence the bore is so large that there is no place for cooling passeges between either 2 or 4 of the cilinders so it creates uneven cooling and power... or so ive heard.

Yes you are right.Because of the different cooling effect from one cylinder to another it creates problems with ring seal.The 400's even seem to have problems when you run a 6 inch rod.If you take a look at the cross hatch after 30 nights of going in around and around circles you will notice some cylinders look good others you can hardly see it.Also if you perform a leak down test these inner cylinders seem to have less compression.Is it due to these cylinders running to rich because the runners are a little bit shorter I don't know but I would think it had more to do with these (hot spots).
10-05-2005, 06:58 PM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by dr_bowtie
not true....I have done a lot of 400's....you just have to factor that in when selecting the cam to build less cylinder heat where you don't want it....

Are you refering to cylinder pressure.The comp. ratio is an easier way to control the heat.Changing the lobe seperation from 106 to 112 will help to build the cylinder pressure and yes this change will tend to build more heat but not as much as changing the comp ratio.
10-05-2005, 07:02 PM
Ross

go 4 a 350 .60 over. they are a great engine for racing/street driving. i am currently building a 350 .60 over with a cam that has .551 lift, eagle forged rods, vortec heads, KB pistons, eagle crank, edelbrok vicotr intake, holley 750, MSD ignition system. 10.5 compression. its able to shift at 6500-7000 rpm and use premium pump gas fuel. use a 4 bolt main block.

Quote:

It is getting increasingly more difficult to find a good 400 block, and they are much more prone to cracks than a 350 block. A 2-bolt main 400 block is stronger than a 4-bolt main block. Don't be surprised if the first couple of blocks you find will be unusable.

p.s. 4 bolt is better, the main caps are bigger, and the block itslef actually has more steel 2 it.
10-05-2005, 07:22 PM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by Ross
go 4 a 350 .60 over. they are a great engine for racing/street driving. i am currently building a 350 .60 over with a cam that has .551 lift, eagle forged rods, vortec heads, KB pistons, eagle crank, edelbrok vicotr intake, holley 750, MSD ignition system. 10.5 compression. its able to shift at 6500-7000 rpm and use premium pump gas fuel. use a 4 bolt main block.

p.s. 4 bolt is better, the main caps are bigger, and the block itslef actually has more steel 2 it.

In all the years I have built engines I have never seen a broken cap in a street driven car.If you it makes you feel better run a 2- bolt with a stud kit.
10-05-2005, 07:25 PM
Ross

i wasnt getting at a broken cap, studs really arent gonna help anyway since like u said, caps dont break. just the block itself is actually stronger. and ive seen block break many times.
10-05-2005, 07:29 PM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by Ross
i wasnt getting at a broken cap, studs really arent gonna help anyway since like u said, caps dont break. just the block itself is actually stronger. and ive seen block break many times.

That depends on the year of the block.Something else to think about you have 6 more holes in the block when you go to the 4- bolt main.
10-05-2005, 07:32 PM
Ross

ok if u think a 2 bolt is better go 4 it. just ask yourself one question. y do all the high performance sbc crate engine builders (scoggin dickey, edelbrok, gm's crates etc) all use 4 bolt blocks?
10-05-2005, 07:40 PM
erik erikson

Re: engine swap (350, 383, or 400?)

Quote:

Originally posted by delmar6189
i currently have a stock 305 in my 1986 pontiac grand prix and i was wondering what would be the best engine swap for my car. its going to be a daily driver but also occasionally raced (weekend racer). im trying to choose between a 350, 383, or a 400. i thought a 400 would be the best because its the biggest chevy SB but i have people telling me to get a 350 because its a great street engine and theres also people telling me to build a 383. i never got a real straightforward answer on what to do so im hoping someone can give me good advice and help me with this desicion. i would appreciate all advice and suggestions. thanks. :D

BTW, this is the link for my car... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/727012/2

He states it is going to be his (daily driver) but occasionally raced.Do you really think you need a 4- bolt main for the trips to work and to the store.Better read his first post again.The big parts house's have been selling people on the 4- bolt main idea for years.It is called marketing.
10-05-2005, 07:42 PM
Ross

haha nice.

u would find a 4 bolt at a wrecker for the same price as a 2 bolt. i was just stating its something worth looking into.
10-05-2005, 07:44 PM
Ross

Quote:

2-bolt main 400 block is stronger than a 4-bolt main block

i was just correcting u so u wouldnt steer this new rod builder wrong.
10-05-2005, 07:53 PM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally posted by Ross
i was just correcting u so u wouldnt steer this new rod builder wrong.

I understand what you are doing.I just did not want him to waste his time or money looking for a 4- bolt block.When it is his daily driver.
10-05-2005, 07:57 PM
Ross

ok thats understandable then.
10-05-2005, 08:32 PM
pat mccarthy

4 bolt block sell thats why. the block is the same . just more holes in the main web . when i think hi hp and rpm i like more hole in the main web ?? this part of the gm block works but is a bit on the thin side the 383 is a good way to go and can be built very cheap cast steel crank. and hiper pistons and stock recon 5.7 rods . most 400 are junk try to find a good one .good luck you can find 350 all over and they are cheap a 400 bores move. they run hot .you can not bore them much.030 i have seen the cam bearings not fit. small rods and i never one seen last to long moveing LC to make it run cooler?? run less CR? what the hell why not run a four cylinder? i am all for big cubes but the 400 was not the best of gm engines the last one i seen sold for $450 and i do not if it was good core.that a lot for somthing that is junk?? good low rpm engine good truck . but a big block is much better engine.i f you want big cubes in a small package buy the dart or world block much better than buying GM junk blocks. 383 you will do some cutting on the block and nip the rod bolts and a small base cam helps to:whacked:
10-05-2005, 09:17 PM
dr_bowtie

Erick....

I understand the shorter runner in the center will cause the inner cylinders to run rich....but running rich on the street in those cylinders will actually cool the charge and effectively cool the cylinder....It's only with high compression and racing gas together running rich can cause more heat......

In some instances a 2 bolt main block is stronger than it's 4 bolt counterpart and sometimes it is not....

If you have a 2bolt block and want to make it "For Sure" stronger ask your machinist to "Pin The Caps" it can be done several ways. With dowel pins and will locate the caps in a positive fashion... I use big block chevy head alignment dowels and cut the main cap bolt hole to accept these and the caps to match....press them in the block and install the caps and line-hone the mains......they won't move....

The purpose of stronger mains is to keep the caps from walking under load....this does NOT become and issue untill about 6500rpm....if you'll be seeing upwards of this the stronger mains wouldn't be a bad idea....
10-26-2005, 02:41 PM
DADNOVA

I have three novas 1 has a 327 1 has a 350 and 1 has a 400.
The 327 and 350 have never seen the front of my 400 sbc car.
Build the 400 not over .40 over and put a good cooling system on it. Cu=HP
10-27-2005, 08:19 AM
tyler

go with the 383 stoker lots of power at a decent price or a 350 is a good choice too they also have plenty of bang for you buck
11-25-2005, 06:00 PM
ccf327

Here is a 383 fresh in the crate!
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...72-P764C0.aspx

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:01 PM.