Starter Whirrrrrr

Gettin closer on my starter project - finally found the correct starter for the 70 Camaro auto with 2 bbl - I started it about 4 or 5 times and it sounded great - no shreeking, just smooth - backed her out of the shop to the house. Shut it down, came out and hit the key and now all it does is give off this whirring sound like the starter gear is turning; however, the bendix is not thrusting forward to the flywheel. My guess is that it is a breakdown in the new starter; however, my guesses haven't been good lately. Also thought about the juice from the battery; however, it seemed that if it turned the bendix gear that it should push it to the flywheel. Any thoughts out there - I know I can count on Streets to help a little!!!!

Streets - you must have talked to my brother in law - he also said to get a crank - he is also a smaudass!! Thanks for the advice - I think I will take it to the starter shop for a new bendix now that I have a starter that works - hate to wait for the boat from China for another one.

Check the 12v supply from the key to the solenoid before you trash the starter and also the ground from the solenoid to battery
(never overlook the obvious)

GM starters don't use a bendix spring? They use a solenoid to move the starter gear over so it meshes with the flywheel gear. On the other end of the solenoid is a copper ring that is pressed up against 2 contacts to connect the starter to the positive battery terminal. I don't see how the starter could come on if the gear hadn't engaged unless maybe something is wrong in the solenoid and is causing the starter to come on prematurely.

If the bendix spring were to break in a way that it would prevent the engagement of the bendix gear, then wouldn't it prevent the solenoid from sending power to the starter also? I'm just trying to say that maybe the problem is in the solenoid cap and not the starter nose.

Well, got a new starter and it works fine. So tell me about shimming. Is that a scientific measurement between the gears, or can you tell by ear if things are OK. I installed .046 because that is what I had. It sound OK, except the engine seems to balk at the front end of the start and then fires right up. I am wondering if this is a shim issue, or simply nothing to worry about.
Thanks for your help on this one

Next time, go to the dealer for a starter, it costs $200 for a rebuild, but the one in my truck has lasted nearly 30 years, so why would I replace it with anything different? I have been trying to go to the dealer for parts now because they are usually in stock, and the quality is soo much better. Ever wonder why you usually see the same cars at Autozone? Because they buy Autozone parts and always end up causing more things to go wrong than before.

Thanks Streets - I think I will take out the shims and see what happens. I was kind of leery not putting any in for fear that it was too tight and may have caused the problem with the one that went bad.

Haven't been to Wally World to get the crank; however, no rush as there are always "cranks" at Wally World. I hate that place - box stores are not good for our local mom and pop businesses - and it seems that their stuff is pretty mediocre. However, we do have a Lowe's and Home Depot and their stuff is OK. I never go to Wally World unless it is a last choice.....................

As for the first starter that went bad, the guy at the counter didn't know; however, a mechanic in the shop associated with the parts counter said it could be a bad clutch - would that be in the bendix mechanism? They hooked it up to a battery charger and it acted normal on repeated hits. However, the mechanic said that it could be thrusting the bendix out; however, the clutch may be broken - therefore, the armature turns but the gear doesn't.

Later

re shimming - i agree, put in what was there. if the space is too tight (need shimes) the bendinx may bind or hit the ring gear and ring. too much space and you may grind up teeth.

wally world...not my favorite palce, but then they just opened a wally super center here - and now it is my favorite grocery store! Many things there are 20-30% less than my local mom and pop grocer (pickles, peanut butter, candy, cookies, butter, crackers and more). I like the local folks, but i like my money more!

as to AZ and dealers, etc. There are differences in aftermarket part qualities, and the 'factory' parts are usually better. Are they 3.7 times better (58 vs 200)? If you have to pay labor, probably, and most dealer gurantee parts and labor 12/12,000 if they do the work and supply parts. If you are the wrench, then cheaper is better.

What about used parts? My taurus needed an alternator - dealer price i can't repeat:eek:, AZ wanted $250 or so. Junk yard? $25. It was an expereinced part so it knew what to do!

starter - AZ $120 to $180 reman. Boneyard? $20. AND i happened to get a new reman unit - clean as the store'll give you!

as to a 30 year old starter - i had a battery last 11.7 years, and only changed it because, well, going into the 12th winter it seemed like a good idea. teh battery? some aftermarket something the dealer threw in a new Jeep when the 'factory' battery was dead on delivery!

I do draw the line at used brake parts though:whacked: