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I have my engine pulled from my '66 Caprice and am wanting to strip/dismantle it and get it ready to paint and chrome out. My question is, when I remove the intake what do I do? How do I mark the timing so that I can get it back to where it was before I messed with it? Also, is there anything else I should know before I go ahead with my mission?
Chris
I would just pull it. Find TDC on #1 piston, get dist as close as possible to #1 firing position and drop it. You are going to have to time it even if you mark it.
find tdc for #1 firing order is 18436572 timing at idle with vaccum advance disconected is 12- 15 full advance no more than 36 total
LOL, I forgot to mention that I am a beginner mechanic! So could you break it down a lil' better for me in my language, lol! I also want to pull the harmonic balancer....
Chris
I'm not trying to be a smart a--, you probably should at least get a Hayne's or a Chiltons.
Go to the autozone website, you can look through online manuals there. Look in the how-to part, then navigate to engine and engine overhauling. That should help get you started.
ok timing mark on crank dampner will rotate twice for one rotation of cam as is the same for distributor when your rotor is lined up with #1 spark plug your will be close to #1 piston top dead center #1 plug is the one in front on the drivers side the rotor is the thing that goes round and round under the distributer cap the distributer cap is the thing on the back side of you engine with all the wires spark pug wires are the things going from the cap to the spark plug and if you don't know what your spark plug is you need to find a mechanic to show you.
oh the crank dampner is that thing behind the pulley where your belts go the one on the bottom:D
Quote:
Originally posted by big489
ok timing mark on crank dampner will rotate twice for one rotation of cam as is the same for distributor when your rotor is lined up with #1 spark plug your will be close to #1 piston top dead center #1 plug is the one in front on the drivers side the rotor is the thing that goes round and round under the distributer cap the distributer cap is the thing on the back side of you engine with all the wires spark pug wires are the things going from the cap to the spark plug and if you don't know what your spark plug is you need to find a mechanic to show you.
oh the crank dampner is that thing behind the pulley where your belts go the one on the bottom:D
Great translation, lol! So basically once its lined up with the #1 plug I mark it and that will be where it needs to be reset too, right..... Also, is there anything else I should be aware of when doing this?
And remember Eighteen forty three sixty five seventy two--1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 firing order.
How are you going to mark it to re-align it if you are having it cleaned, painted, and chromed?
yes, make sure your distributor is lined up properly it also drives the oil pumpQuote:
Originally posted by unkut2003
Great translation, lol! So basically once its lined up with the #1 plug I mark it and that will be where it needs to be reset too, right..... Also, is there anything else I should be aware of when doing this?
if he aligns the timing mark on the dampner with 0 on the timing tab he can drop the distributor anywhere he wants provided he get the oil pump drive rod aligned if this is aligned properly the distributor will drop down all the way if he gets this done he run his wires from where his rotor points follow the firing order had his engine should start from the he will need to time his engine with a timming light.Quote:
Originally posted by jramshu
How are you going to mark it to re-align it if you are having it cleaned, painted, and chromed?
that works too:DQuote:
Originally posted by DennyW
Get a marker, grease pencil. Next, if you look on the intake, you will see that each cylinder has a number by the intake runner. Find the number 1 cylinder. (also, the firing order should be right on the intake manifold). Follow that number 1 wire to your distributor cap. Mark a line from the number 1 cylinder straight down onto the aluminum body. Now, pull the distributor cap off. Look at the rotor. Now, with a socket, and breaker bar, turn the engine clockwise facing the front of the motor,until the rotor lines up with your mark. Now take something that you can scratch a mark that won't rub off on the distributor to mark where it is. At the same time relate the spot with a spot on the intake, like a bolt, hump, or, just scratch it so you will know. Then, you can take the distributor hold down off, and remove the distributor. :)
I REALLY appreciate it! I got it all jotted down and tomorrow I'm gonna give er' a go, lol! Can't wait to see the completed black block with Chrome accessories!Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
Well, he was honest, and said he didn't know. So, you got to really make it easey for him. :)
most dress-up kits come with a chrome timing cover...
You need a balancer puller/installer to remove the balancer and PROPERLY reinstall it. (Sounds like it's time to buy your first specialty tool!!!) Bonus for owning it: if you want to install a different cam, replace the balancer, replace the front seal, or replace the timing set you now will have the needed tool forever.
Good luck, and be sure to have fun!:3dSMILE:
You guys did a great job of leading him through this. When I first read this I said, Where do you start? Odds are he's going to be a notch off, Heck we all were ,and sometimes getting that dist. to drop down in hole is more difficult. Did anyone tell him sometimes it wont drop right in correctly and he may need someone bumping the starter over.and he holding the dist. down.How did we learn this ? When I was 15 and rebuilding my flat head ford, when I pulled the motor down with my father ,I couldn't find the bearings. I think I was looking for ball bearings. By the time I was 16-17 I had surpassed my dads automotive skills and was changing camshafts , intake and carbs,4 speeds and positractions on my 56 chevy,left ford and never looked back. Us old geesers had something else to deal with.Back then we used the gaskets at the front and rear of the intakes. Does anyone remember changing a cam,lifters and timing chain ,getting everthing laced back together , having it running just fine,feeling very good about our accompolishment ,only to discover that the rear intake gasket had squished out and you had a heck of an oil leak. Very Disheartning.Where did a lot of us old geesers learn? I think I learned from reading every hot rod magazine from cover to cover. I'll bet a lot of you did too. How about a Chiltons Motor manual?Step by step instructions. CSFO 3716 You're right! it is! going to be! a long one!
Denny, Was that picture for CSFO and I ? What is it? what's that thing it's attached to ? When does class begin? OH ! Will it pull ball joints???
This is good stuff , I enjoyed that first class ,but Im wasting daylight, Got work to do . later
Replacing it wit chrome. I got the tools today, lol.Quote:
Originally posted by csf03716
why do you want to pull the dampner?....you will need specialty tools to re-install correctly....and if you don't really know what your doin it might pay to keep it as simple as you can and spend more time with the scrub brushes and gunk and masking tape off than takin on more than your prepared to at this time!...
Well here is my progress thus far:
Cleaning the engine (my step-dad in pic):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...2003/fixed.jpg
In Primer:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t2003/a009.jpg
Intake Stripped/Cleaned and Painted (aluminum):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t2003/a013.jpg
Intake and Engine Preview (with OLD Valve Covers):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...3/6523b10c.jpg
I'm going shopping next week for all my new parts and supplies to complete the project! Then I'll start in on the tranny (350 Turbo) and then the bodywork!!! Before long my '66 is gonna love me, lol!
P.S.- I appreciate all of the help and so forth! It is really pointing me in the right direction and I'm confident that whatever problems I encounter you all will help me overcome...... lol!
Thanks, I'll definitely check it out and look into that!Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
:) unkut2003. Here is a link to a pdf you might want to look at. Once you get the balancer off, you want to check it for groove wear. They make a sleeve kit, which puts the surface of the seal area back to new shape. I have used these quit a bit. They all will groove the surface some. Normal wear thing.
http://www2.vsm.skf.com/Files/Produc...DFS/457892.pdf
:)
Well here is the bay now...Quote:
Originally posted by csf03716
way to go!...the primer will help alot....now ya gotta do the engine bay!...gotta a power washer?....can you say "de-greaser"!......i thought you could!....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t2003/a007.jpg
But eventually it will house Kandy paint and a mean a** 350, lol! I've got to finish the engine detailing, then a lot of bodywork will follow, including the engine bay!
if it doesn't drop all the way in you need to take a long screw driver and line up the oil pump slot with that of the distributor end slot.. Ed ke6bnlQuote:
Originally posted by unkut2003
I REALLY appreciate it! I got it all jotted down and tomorrow I'm gonna give er' a go, lol! Can't wait to see the completed black block with Chrome accessories!