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Hey fellas hope this doesn't sound stupid....but what do I need to install a set of roller rockers on my 400 sbc? The 400 has aluminum heads and 2.02-1.60 stainless valves, edelbrock eps intake, holley 750cfm carb w/ vacuum secondaries, crane 292/512 flat tappet cam, hydralic lifters, stock rockers and pushrods. Any info would be appreciated, also is adjusting rollers the same as adjusting stock rockers?
They install the same way a stock rocker would. They also adjust the exact same way. It would also be a good idea, if you don't already have a set, to put on poly-locks.Quote:
Originally posted by onemangang
Hey fellas hope this doesn't sound stupid....but what do I need to install a set of roller rockers on my 400 sbc? The 400 has aluminum heads and 2.02-1.60 stainless valves, edelbrock eps intake, holley 750cfm carb w/ vacuum secondaries, crane 292/512 flat tappet cam, hydralic lifters, stock rockers and pushrods. Any info would be appreciated, also is adjusting rollers the same as adjusting stock rockers?
i've heard some machining may need to be done to the heads and maybe longer pushrods and what about guideplates?
I have never heard of a reason to do any machine work to the heads. As long as the ratio is the same as the stock ones, there is no need for a different length push rod. Guide plates would be a good addition, and a good safety measure to keep things straight.Quote:
Originally posted by onemangang
i've heard some machining may need to be done to the heads and maybe longer pushrods and what about guideplates?
So all I really need to know is my ratio and get some guideplates...how can iI figure out my ratio? Thanks for the replies...
You will need guide plates if you dont have them already. Best set up is to yank the pressed in studs and goto a screw in stud with the guide plate under it. That is where you get into a bit of head-shop costs. There may be some sort of work-around to get guide plates on your pressed studs, then you could use any aftermarket alluminum roller rocker. If you have the rockers proped up on a guide plate of sorts and not on screwed in studs I would suggest pushrods grow to the added height added by the guide plates to keep your rocker geometry correct. Best is to goto screwed in studs and do it right and be done with it. You may be able to do this on the engine as well. Lets see what the input has to say on the details of getting it done.
A stock set of rocker arms for a small block chevy is 1.5
If this has aluminum heads, like you stated, then it should have screw-in studs already.Quote:
Originally posted by onemangang
The 400 has aluminum heads
Thanks you guys for your input...that's what I like about this site. So I should be able to just go out and but a set of 1.5 ratio roller rockers and guideplates and I should be go? I'm guessing it wouldn't hurt to get some hardend push rods?
Does your motor have guide plates now? The post sounds like you don't. If not, does it have self-aligning rocker arms? There are self-aligning roller rockers that do not require guide plates.
Thanks for the reply, I have not done much head work but I do believe I have guide plates but they don't look the ones in Jegs or anything I think they must be stock. I would post a picture but my lab ate my digital camera. Basically you would see them right under the stud correct? Anyway which ones do you choose the 1.5 or the 1.6?
They will look like fingers that hold the pushrod from moving side to side. If you have them, you have hardened pushrods already. If not you need the whole deal.
If you have allum heads, you should have screwed in studs, as you were told above. If so, you can buy guide plates if you dont already have them and get roller rockers installed very easily. For long term use, if cost is not a factor, I like the Crane Gold Race rocker. Here is why, it restricts oil out of the pushrod, but at the same time it has an orifice that directs the spray of oil from the pushrod pocket directly at the roller fulcrum and the roller tip. It is a roller propriety oiling system for the heads. Once you go to a roller fulcrum and roller tip, your oil requirements go down. You will be producing less heat, and therefor need less oil to cool the springs and other parts. This makes more of your engines oil volume available for your rods and mains. Its a good thing. Crane also makes a street use roller lifter that is an economical allum roller, but it does not have the orrifice/spray control that the pro-race has.
Thanks Larry for the post. I do have guide plates. Now All I need to know is whether to get 1.5 or 1.6 ratio.
The 1.6 rockers will change your valve lift from .512 to .546. Duration will also increase a bit. You need to know whether you have proper valve to piston clearance at this lift, and that you will not have coil spring bind.
So in conclusion getting the 1.5 ratio would be the no fuss ticket?
If you don't want to bother checking clearances, 1.5 is the safe choice . . . or you can put in 1.6 and see if you get noise . . . :LOL: