I need some 383 stroker help, Please!!!

Each time I used Hastings rings. What can I do with the TBI to make it more to the liking of the 383? Every thing about it is still stock, injector, chip. Some one told me to find a 454 injector and put on it and that would fix my problem. I also wonder if it is running lean, if that would heat up the rings too much and that is what is causing my problem. I would love to put a carb on it, but that will lead to transmission modification, so that is not looking good at this point. The block is good and clean so I don't think it has cooling problems. I try to run my engines as cool as possible (160 degree thermastat) and this engine still has the engine oil cooler on it. Will the computer get along with the 260 comp cam with a gear drive? There is all kind of racket under there when it is running.

Kodiak

Kodiak, Just had to read Your post to LT1S10 in his hospital bed.He is anxious to get home to continue his discussions with you. He said he wanted you to put the carburator thoughts out of your mind. You, 1stGenCamaro, and I have all had bad experiences with those pistons and I know several others that have also.Im sure you have something there that you will work out but I am convinced that those pistons are contributing to your problem.I think 1stGenCamaro might agree with me when I once again say , THINK FORGED PISTONS I read all the get well post to Mike under the prayer request thread and he wants everyone to know how much he appreciates them.

I used JE/SRP forged pistons before and man they seemed to be able to take a beating and didn't have any problems with them. These, if I remember correctly, don't need a special file fit ring but I filed mine anyways and haven't had any problems with them. I really don't know what to say about those busted pistons and what is actually causing it though. Hastings rings are quite alright for your intened purpose and shouldn't be blamed. As far as the computer getting along with the cam and gear drive it shouldn't have any problems with the drive and shouldn't be too hard with the TBI either, although I am not sure on that. You did stroke it and add a cam so this (according to my cfm calculator) would increase your cfm needs by roughly 100cfm. I would think the TBI would have enough flow to accomodate that. As well you should hook up the knock sensor just in case.

I have had a thought pop in my mind, those pistons do often require a tighter side clearance than most forged or cast pistons. They don't 'swell' or expand as much when heated. If the bore side clearance was too tight or not tight enough this could cause problems, and since the first motor lasted for quite a while and the second didn't (after you had it rebored etc) this might be somewhat of a problem. I'm not sure if you checked the side clearance and it may not be an issue but like I said, it's just a thought.

riverhorse59, I wish you a speedy recovery. There is no way it will go back together without forged pistons the next time.

1stGenCamaro I didn't check the side clearence at all when building it.

Kodiak

Its not me that's ill.It's LT1S10 thats in the hospital. He was trying to help you.

riverhorse59, sorry about that, guess I misread that post. Best wishes to you lt1s10.

Kodiak

Kodiak, I was just looking at the pictures of your pistons again. Why not send those pictures to Silv-o-lite if thats who made them, don't mention anything about what may or may not have happened to the motor and ask them what happened. Tell them that it has happened more than once,it's getting pretty expensive,AND---ASK them for some help. Professionally and Financially.What can it hurt?

There is your problem!! .025 is not enuff ring gap!! The instructions said 30 percent more! The hypereutectic pistons use a high ring land and it takes all the heat, thus the ring expands a great deal more than a stock type piston.. Enlarge that gap to .035 and you will have no problems.....

riverhorse59 these pistons in the pictures are Powerhouse pistons. One is .030 and the other is .040. The Silv-O-Lites are still in the engine at the time. I was so mad (and broke) that the last time I took it out, it just went in the shop floor where it still is today. I'm going to try to tear it down tomorrow, but I know the Silv-O-Lites are broke also due to a smashed spark plug clue. I'll keep you all posted on the findings.

Great advise from everyone, and thanks so much for all the help.

Kodiak

Ok, here we go again. I got the top end of this engine tore down today and here is what I found. #1 Piston was cracked, #2 piston was fine, #3 piston was busted, #4 piston was busted, #5 piston was busted, #6 piston was busted, #7 piston was cracked, #8 piston was busted. All pistons was busted just as the ones in the pics. One thing I did notice was all pistons was busted or cracked right at the exhaust valves. The pic of the two, I checked and they also was busted at the exhaust valves. I checked the deck height and the pistons clear and do not stick out above the block. I also checked the exhaust valves and the were not hitting the pistons. I don't really think I have a lean mixture problem whereas the top of the pistons were covered with black soot along with the heads. I'm wondering if the timing could be causing a "hot spot" on the pistons and making them weak at that point.

Kodiak

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Originally posted by Kodiak
Ok, here we go again. I got the top end of this engine tore down today and here is what I found. #1 Piston was cracked, #2 piston was fine, #3 piston was busted, #4 piston was busted, #5 piston was busted, #6 piston was busted, #7 piston was cracked, #8 piston was busted. All pistons was busted just as the ones in the pics. One thing I did notice was all pistons was busted or cracked right at the exhaust valves. The pic of the two, I checked and they also was busted at the exhaust valves. I checked the deck height and the pistons clear and do not stick out above the block. I also checked the exhaust valves and the were not hitting the pistons. I don't really think I have a lean mixture problem whereas the top of the pistons were covered with black soot along with the heads. I'm wondering if the timing could be causing a "hot spot" on the pistons and making them weak at that point.

Kodiak

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kodiak i don't see how you're gonna have soot at one place and a hot spot at another on the same piston if its heat doing the damage. if youve got that much heat , you should be able to see it. The top of the piston ant that big. is the cracked pistons cracked towards the front of the motor or to the rear of the motor? Something is jerking the top of those pistons off. why the exhaust valve? i don't see anything hitting the top of the piston. looks like the top of the pistons are being pulled up and for that to happen the piston would have to be rocking back and forth or cocking some how. also on the heat thing if it was heat it should show some damage down the side of the piston where the piston broke. It would try to go down passed the ring before it would burn a hole in the piston, don't see any damage on the sides. how about if the block was bored at the wrong angle, couldn't that put a drag on one side of the piston? Its been done before. are you sure that the ring is not loose in the in the ring grove? some things to look at and think about. :confused:

I got some more pics up, but they wasn't as good as I would liked for them to be ( my camera died). See what ya think. I got another block (4 bolt main)to start all over again, so pour it on me.

Kodiak

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Originally posted by Kodiak
I got some more pics up, but they wasn't as good as I would liked for them to be ( my camera died). See what ya think. I got another block (4 bolt main)to start all over again, so pour it on me.

Kodiak

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when you cut the ring gap did you check the gap with the ring off of the piston and pushed down into the block on every ring and on ea. dif cylender. how many pistons are broke where the ring butts togother? i see a few. did it have good power when it ran?

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Originally posted by lt1s10
when you cut the ring gap did you check the gap with the ring off of the piston and pushed down into the block on every ring and on ea. dif cylender. how many pistons are broke where the ring butts togother? i see a few. did it have good power when it ran?

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Every ring was filed for each hole off the piston pushed down square. I think there is three pistons that are broke at the ring gap, two that is not and the two that are cracked, are not at the ring gap. When it was running, it ran like a scalded dog. It never let out a puff of smoke or steam the whole time. Some of the clean spots is where a mechanic came down and looked at it and cleaned just a few spots on it to look at the surface but not all you pointed out DennyW. And yes that is the ring you see in the one pic.

This next block will be bored to each piston, and I'm going to stand over him to make sure it is. What should be the piston to wall clearance? This was the engine that had .025 ring gap, what should I go with next time with forged pistons?

Kodiak

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Originally posted by Kodiak
Every ring was filed for each hole off the piston pushed down square. I think there is three pistons that are broke at the ring gap, two that is not and the two that are cracked, are not at the ring gap. When it was running, it ran like a scalded dog. It never let out a puff of smoke or steam the whole time. Some of the clean spots is where a mechanic came down and looked at it and cleaned just a few spots on it to look at the surface but not all you pointed out DennyW. And yes that is the ring you see in the one pic.

This next block will be bored to each piston, and I'm going to stand over him to make sure it is. What should be the piston to wall clearance? This was the engine that had .025 ring gap, what should I go with next time with forged pistons?

Kodiak

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i really dont know kodiak, i fill like you have a block, piston, rings, bore fit problem. you need to clean the heads up, but i dont see any water eating the top of the piston up. JMO- get a block ready, stright bore and the right clearances, good set of forged pistons, good set of rings (buy them cut) get everything fitted with the right clearances and assemble with care.

check the air filter, fuel filter, and fuel pump pressure before you start it up. put the knock senser back on. check close for vac. leakes. a new chip wouldnt hurt but most of them only work at WOT. it should not take but a small amount of fuel to ride down the rd. at 50 mph. so i dont belive its lean. let us know whats going on :cool:

everybody has their opinion but this is...
ball park... pistons clearance- 0.0007-0.0017

ring gap-top comp. 0.010-0.020
- bottom comp. 0.010-0.025
- oil 0.015-0.0055