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Just wanted to get some feedback if I should blow my 350? It's strictly street, but I want that added beef. I've been looking at a Weiand 671, any good? One of the questions I have is what is the difference in the 1/2" or 8mm pitch? Are there any pro's or con's to each? Also, what other mods, if any, need to be made to accomodate one of the Weiand kits?
-gunz
Thanks for the reply Richard. Ironically, I read that yesterday. That's where I got the info based upon my decision on the 671. I just wanted to hear some thoughts from someone other than the website. What about the 1/2" and 8mm? I didn't see anything about that on their site - unless I missed it?Quote:
Originally posted by techinspector1
gunz, read this first.....
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechSer...fo/SCTech.html
The 1/2 pitch is a square tooth style belt used for mild applications like the 671.
The 8mm is a round tooth belt used on higher boost applications.
I vote FOR the blower.:)
If its a daily driver-No. If its a crusier/street racer, sounds like fun. With the large hood and engine bay one the 65/66 trucks, you should also be able to abide by any blower regulations in your state:)
I run a few Weiand 671 on 350s and 454s, and the 1/2 pitch came with the set ups what I used, belts was not a problem. I did sling a few water pumps off of the motor and broke a few belts, but that wont the belts problem. :LOL: :LOL:
6-71 is big on a 350, you got the right internals for it or do you plan to rebuild?
The roots blower or 6/71 will add a new demention to your engine without a doubt. You must do it right with engine internals and quality parts so your money is not wasted but there are many TURN KEY kits with directions out there.
If you keep boost under about 10 PSI you can run a stock engine with exception to needing new cam. Stock cam will work but you give up potential and HYD. cam with boost is not good. You can get by with lower boost but cam /springs are pretty cheap and a small percentage of project. Over about 12 pounds boost starts to need O-rings ,good crank and so on. Be sure to get help on carbs. A blower carb sees 100 % vac. at base all the time and must be modified to work on a blower.
You cam run 1/2 inch belts as they are cheap and work great for your needs and tons of used parts available from years of use and people converting. You can buy a timming belt from a bearing supply house for about 45 bucks or get same belt from BDS etc... for double cost. 2 inch will also be great and gives a little more room up front. Be careful buying used blowers and get help inspecting from person that knows what to look for.
Well, it's not a "daily" driver. It gets driven about 3 times a week. Currently it's got a 350 bored 30 over, turbo 400, Pete Jackson gear drive, 292 cam, flat top pistons, Quadra Jet race carb, vette springs. I'm going with dual Holley 600's if I do go with a 671. I'm not certain on the forged internals but I guess that's something I better find out. It's got 600 miles on the motor.
drg84 - you made me think of another point. Would I have to cut the hood? I don't want to but if I have to, so be it. Could I squeeze one of those flat style air cleaners (help me out on the name if it's got one) on top and still be able to close the hood?
The intake and blower together are about 12'' tall.Quote:
Originally posted by bigazzgunz
drg84 - you made me think of another point. Would I have to cut the hood? I don't want to but if I have to, so be it. Could I squeeze one of those flat style air cleaners (help me out on the name if it's got one) on top and still be able to close the hood?
this is what a 454- 671 with 2 AFBs looks like on a 1980 el-camino. i dont think it will go under your hood eather.:confused:
With street supercharging, it adds a whole new dimension to low RPM GRUNT. Asensible set up is a lot of fun to drive on the street, and as a result you will probably develope eye frown as you keep one eye on the road and one eye on the temperature guage, My opinion do it and have a lot of fun, I sure did.
PS: blowers are loud as well as big.
What ya gonna call it Bro, BigBuxTruck :toocool: , but if ya DO deside to blow it go with a 8-71, only about 350.00 more than a 6-71 and it keeps the intake temp LOTS cooler along with higher boost at low rpm's **)
HA!!!! Is this Viking from CC? Actually, I ordered my plate last week....."ALL 2 EZ"Quote:
Originally posted by viking
What ya gonna call it Bro, BigBuxTruck :toocool: , but if ya DO deside to blow it go with a 8-71, only about 350.00 more than a 6-71 and it keeps the intake temp LOTS cooler along with higher boost at low rpm's **)
Back to the temp prob.....will it run a lot hotter than normal? I sit at about 190 driving and 210 if I get stuck in traffic....
Big. Do you have a stock radiator now? An aluminum rad. will help some. Engine oil cooler. A bigger blower turning at lower rpm to get the same boost should help some. Aluminum heads. Where there's a will there's a way.Quote:
Originally posted by bigazzgunz
HA!!!! Is this Viking from CC? Actually, I ordered my plate last week....."ALL 2 EZ"
Back to the temp prob.....will it run a lot hotter than normal? I sit at about 190 driving and 210 if I get stuck in traffic....
Well it's got a brand new radiator (not sure what size or make) with twin electric fans. Will that not suffice? What about that Purple Ice by Royal Purple radiator additive? Is that stuff any good?
So if I went with an OEM aluminum rad., what kinda temp changes should I expect? Also, what make of alu. radiator should I look for? (i.e. year, model, size)
the problem you got though tech is the weight, to get that fan on there you've got to use about 4 to 5' spacers and that puts a lot of weight on the water pump. when you get into it, it will pull the bearings out of the water pump. the fan is the way to cool it, but you have to watch your rpms. ive had the water pump brake off of the block. ive had the blower belt come through the hood, it looked like a black snake shooting into the air. to run a blower on the street takes a lot of compromise. :DQuote:
Originally posted by techinspector1
You stated that you get a temp rise between driving and stuck in traffic. That should be your first clue that you're not moving enough air through the radiator at idle. I've been through that trick-of-the-month, double-throwdown, super-keen electric fan horsecrap too many times. Never again. You won't find a better system anywhere than the OEM designs. If you're gettin' a temp rise now with the motor naturally aspirated, how do you think it's gonna react with a lung bolted on it????
Yeah it's me, they know that scooters are my first love but let me play here some :3dSMILE: and yes a monica will heat things up thats why I suggested to go bigger and turner it slower, and IMHO I would'nt go over 6-7 lbs of boost on the street, believe me you WILL feel it, aluminum removes heat MUCH better than steel ( took harley a long time to catch on but they did ) so aluminum radiator and heads help lots, I don't hold much for the water additives but thats me, holleys don't seem to do as well on huffers as carters or predators, and of course injection,Quote:
Originally posted by bigazzgunz
HA!!!! Is this Viking from CC? Actually, I ordered my plate last week....."ALL 2 EZ"
Back to the temp prob.....will it run a lot hotter than normal? I sit at about 190 driving and 210 if I get stuck in traffic....
................... keep us posted with word and pic, I've seen your work and know it's top shelf, later.
Thanks for the insight fellas....
you're right about the cooling by it being a pickup, but the el camino was hard to cool anything other than stock. i put that same motor in a 1970 conv. with the same setup i had in the el camino without any problems. i think it'll work just fine in that pickup with the right fan and rad.. talking about a problem though,in the el camino i had a 4 row rad. up front, 3 elec. fans, a 4 row rad. in the bed with 2 elec. fans running and on a 90 degree day it still ran 230-235. it just took it longer to get there. on a 75 degree day it ran 210. i believe if i had taken the finder liners out of the el camino it would have ran cool. one thing you are 100 % on is the elec. fans. i have owned all of them, and they never improved on anything.i bought some stuff one time that replaced the water in the motor that wouldn't boil, and for a while i road around with the temp. stabilizing at 260 degrees. you could take the rad. cap off at 260(you used a 0 pressur cap) and there was no activity in the rad.,on a cool day it would run normal. it didnt seem to heart anything but i didnt like seeing the temp. that high.Quote:
Originally posted by techinspector1
lt1s10, your point about weight hanging out in the breeze is well taken and as you stated "to run a blower on the street takes a lot of compromise". Still, I wouldn't start a project like this without using an OEM-type system. I was looking through the Radiator Express site 'cause they have a dandy little application software program where you can find the core area of any radiator. Anyway, I see that the 65 Chevy truck has a 25 1/4" x 17 3/8" core for a total of 438 square inches of area. Playing around with their chart, I found a radiator in the '75 and '76 Cadillac fleetwoods that is 32 1/2 x 17 for a total of 552 square inches. That's 20% more area than the Chevy has now and the radiator is about the same height, so the height wouldn't be a problem although you'd have to cut out some of the core support because of the additional length or use a Cadillac core support. Use a stock Cadillac shroud and fan assembly from a boneyard. Autozone has this radiator in a copper/brass construction and it's a 3-core, part number 433451, $209.99. Someone may even make it in aluminum.
http://www.radiatorexpress.com/defau...e=FINDIT_QUICK
:) :)