Well how much was that trans build??????? and the accessory drive packages from the 2 or 3 companies that make decent ones would cost around 25-3000-----
And even if it didn't have ecu/wiring, GM sells a package reasonable-------
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Well how much was that trans build??????? and the accessory drive packages from the 2 or 3 companies that make decent ones would cost around 25-3000-----
And even if it didn't have ecu/wiring, GM sells a package reasonable-------
Something to consider about your 1970 package------------48 years that the parts bolted together have had constant stress on the threaded fasteners and the portion of the block, etc ---------rods tend to split along bolt hole, threads pull out of block for mains and head bolts (chev decks have pass thru bolt threads so some of the end of the bolts are in the coolant and rusty-this takes a toll on the threads when removing the bolts) Unless you are doing a numbers matching resto-------go will the 6.2 ls--------lighter weight, more fuel economy, performance, nicer accessories, lots of aftermarket stuff available reasonably priced-------
Like Tech said, revamping an older set of heads can get pretty costly. $600-$700 does not sound out of line. I'm not going to tell you which way to go engine wise, but make sure you try to come up with a reasonable, true cost estimate before you decide which way you want to go.
Remember, a salvage yard is just that, not a junk yard. Most vehicles were running great when they got wrecked. I put one in with 140k , I checked brgs and they looked like brand new yet. I did have to put intake gaskets in which is stupid easy on an LS motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by unixoracle
Back to the scraper subject, You will never find a better scraper than these. I've had the same one for 15 plus yrs as a mechanic and it finally should be sharpened for the first time ( they do it for free ). The Original Superscraper
I was going to recommend the Super Scrapers too. They are very nice. Just be careful as they are pretty sharp.
Went over too Harbor Freight brick and mortar store today and bought a 7.99 bubble pack set of wood chisels. There's a 1" and 3 other's of various smaller sizes.
I'll go to town on the block deck this weekend. Maybe even get a measurement on that piston dome!
-unix
I took those dome dininsions right out of the Speed pro catoloque
That Speed Pro part number was pulled straight from a google image search where I was trying to find a piston that "looked" similar to what I have. Not the best thing to do I admit, but... was desperate to get some info to you guys, even if it was totally inaccurate. I'll have to measure it to be sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
After cleaning a bit I see .090 or maybe .060 stamped on top of each piston. 60 over maybe or would that be something else?
-unix
that would probably be the oversize and you may even find the piston part number---------
Looks like the late model LT + 8 speed is still available:
https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pt...430874209.html
I've found at least one resource that claims swapping this absolutely requires the ECM and TCM from the donor. Programming a "new" one with the VIN associated with the donor will be difficult and potentially expensive.
-unix
Posted on wrong thread.
.
Life sort of beat me over the head about mid January so I've been really not paying much attention to this build. I'm gaining interest again now and getting ready to put it all back together again!
Went with COMP XR-270-HR/11-422-8 ( 1600-5400rpm, 110LSA, 270/276adv-dur, 218/224 @.050" ) roller kit with all components from COMP including cam and lifters. Will be installing roller rockers and molly pushrods.
The #063 heads were kept stock except for SS valves and the upgraded dual springs/retainers/keepers/seals, etc. as per the specs on the roller cam.
Hopefully I'll have this thing assembled and running in no time eh!
My current worries are...
o need to figure a way to either make one "set" of my lifters solid or purchase a single pair of solid roller lifters for pushrod length checking. I figure the pushrods I'll need will be an inch minimum shorter than stock so my check procedure needs to be spot on. What do you guys do in this situation to determine proper pushrod length
o without proper pushrods, which you really can't get without torquing down at least one head, how then will I be able to accurately do piston to valve clearance checking prior to getting accurately sized pushrods?
chicken => egg
Anyways,
Thanks,
-unix
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5is9BsH5OU&t=16sQuote:
Originally Posted by unixoracle
Pushrod length will not vary valve lift. We try to get the proper pushrod length in order to center the shoe or roller of the rocker arm on the valve stem tip. Drop two oiled solid lifters into the block. Clay the pistons and sit the heads in place without head gaskets, just snugging them down with a few bolts. Install pushrods and rockers. Snug rocker bolts down to zero play. Install the head with a couple of bolts and just snug them down. Roll the crank over two full revolutions and remove the head to cut and measure the thickness of the compressed clay. Add the thickness of the compressed head gasket to your findings. DO NOT USE PLAY DOH, IT WILL NOT RETAIN ITS SHAPE AFTER THE VALVE HAS MADE AN INDENT. Use only oil-based (gray) clay from a craft or hobby shop. Oil the valve faces so that the valve will not stick to the clay.Quote:
Originally Posted by unixoracle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjs61-TCZYw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dz7Fqo_oufU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y66lvdHbm60&t=285s
WATCH THESE VIDEOS SO YOU CAN ASK QUESTIONS BEFORE YOU DO THE PROCEDURE.
Some pictures...
Here ya go... cam stab, pvc press and..... the button!!
With my front cover, which appears stock, and the longest nylon cam thrust button I could buy at Summit, I still needed a longer button. There was a good quarter inch of movement fore/aft of the cam between cover and rear stop. After finally deciding against a new cover I simply dimpled the existing steel cover with my BFH and an impact socket to take up the space. It took a while but after several iterations of measure, remove, bang, replace, measure..., I managed to get the thrust clearance to .006 on the dial. Oh and oddly enough, the lobes are just about centered there in the lifter bores.
-unix
IMO, hardened seats are not needed in situations like yours. 3.73 gears. 3600 pounds. That engine will make 400 HP fallin outta bed. Hardened seats from the factory were a joke anyway and penetrated only about .010" IF you were lucky. Induction hardening is not the best by far, so to say the factory really used honest to goodness hardened seats is a stretch at best.
IMO, unless you plan on towing, or a heavy duty truck application, hardened seats are not needed. Especially in a car with good power and a decent gearset. You will not be straining that engine at all. THAT is where the need for hardened seats comes into play.
I like those heads. They are the same as what I am using on my 402 dirt road build. They can flow like gangbusters for what they are by simply blending the bowls and smoothing out the transition from under the valves into the ports......NO port work at all and you will pick up over 50% of what an entire full port job will offer. Most people don't realize that most of the benefits from porting is in the valve bowl area, but it is and it is VERY simple to do yourself.
Run the Mr Gasket .021 steel shim gasket and that will bump compression up to close to 9.5. Perfect for an iron headed engine on pump gas. With proper camshaft timing and a really good hot ignition curve, with BIG tube headers, I bet 450 or more HP is not out of the question, as we all know these engines were under rated from the factory anyway.
The head work did not include hardened seats. It was, I think another 150 bucks but even the machinist shook his head against it and it was his shop. The bill to get my heads pressure tested, valve jobed and assembled with all new parts to my cam spec was 1200.
These heads have had some mild work previously. I'm certainly no judge at all but the surfaces of the metal are really smooth running from the intake ports all around and down into the bowl area on both the inside and outside of the curve. This is just my feeling around down in there with my fingers. I can't really tell whether any unshrowding has been done as I think what's there are factory marks.
Exhaust ports seem to have been smoothed a bit. Both intake and exhaust ports appear to have been matched to the intake.
I did notice the new valves have a recess in them where the old valves did not, this will reduce compression! So I'm thinking now I'll swap out my Fel Pro .044 compressed gaskets for your suggested Mr. Gasket .021 or maybe even go thinner if I can depending on the results of my upcoming PtoV clearance testing!
-weq
You could always CC a combustion chamber with a pair of the original valves and then with the new valves to find out for sure, but I suspect you will find the difference in volume will be so negligible that it won't make any real difference.
.
My modified front cover didn't manage to maintain the .006 clearance. WTF happened or why is unknown. It was replaced with a Cloyes quick-button two piece cover just because I was ready to be finished with the cam thrust worries.
The engine is assembled now and the headers installed!!! No header clearance issues with the frame, engine stands, starter, tranny, oil filter, etc... I did have to relocate the starter lead from the battery though and I'll need to heat shield the tranny lockup wiring but... I'm happy with it.
Just gotta finish up wiring the dual fan harness, install the radiator-n-fans, heat shield the transmission lockup wiring from the header flange and do some other odd stuff before first fire up!
Then I'll drive it open headers to the exhaust shop across town, over the hill and down the valley... where they'll install the 02 bung near the flange and attach the headers to my existing exhaust. After that, I hope to make it to the Goodguys event next week at TMS! We shall see eh
-weq
Fired it up today!!
This is open headers, no O2 sensor at all to feed good data to the MSD EFI unit so it's running rich and bad, hunting for idle because I replaced the IAC while on the bench. Gotta get it to the exhaust shop to get the headers finished to my pipes with the 02 sensor, but... it's runnin' !!
See the link...
https://youtu.be/7W148nXt60A
-weq
So after having some time to drive it around... throttle response is much improved, low end torque is up and overall low end and mid range torque and power feels to have been increased by a large margin with the roller cam retrofit and the head work. I have yet to do any tuning with the timing or EFI so there are some ponies left to acquire for sure!
This cam, the comp xr270hr, is looking to have been a great choice for this big block. As for the stall... the jury is still out. My guess is that I'll be visiting this again soon.
-weq
Well, considering you haven't tried to help by tuning / timing... why are you undecided on the stall?
Just curious on this end.. Since the cam and the stall / torque convertor need to work together, you seem to like the cam well enough, so I'm curious why you seem undecided on the stall you chose.
No disrespect meant, just curious as to your "feeling" or diagnoses.
The stall... I didn't change/replace it. It is purple and it works, that's all I really know about the converter that's in there right now. It seems pretty tight though so I'm thinking it's stockish maybe 1800-2200.
After some testing and tuning I figure a bigger stall might be in my future. I'm just having some fun with it right now while I work out the kinks in the cooling system and A/C ( oh and the burnt plug boots lol ). Kinda treating it like the cruiser it used to be.. hehe.
-weq
Okay, I get it now.
If you are just going for a cruiser, perhaps consider keeping the tighter converter, turning revs to make horsepower in a range you can't use on the street is really not very effective (imho)..
Now the real question. Are you having fun with it?? 'Cause that's what it is really all about! 8-)