Thread: 396

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Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Air gaps work best @WOT after warmed up thoroughly.
At least, that's my experience.

See, here's another example of marketing hype sucking money out of your wallet. If the motor you're building or buying is intended to be used 100% at the drag strip, great, use an intake manifold you want to and experiment with it. But if the motor is to be used on the street, DO NOT USE AN AIR GAP INTAKE. A street driver needs the heat of the motor up into the manifold to heat the fuel charge so that is will begin to separate into a fog of mixture that the motor can burn. When the mixture is cold, it goes into the motor as big clumps of fuel separated by equally big clumps of air and big clumps of fuel will not burn.

Since you didn't spec out the parts or build the motor, you have no idea of the relationship between the static compression ratio and the cam timing or anything else about the motor, so unless you are willing to tear the motor down and measure everything, get used to continuing problems like this.

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I know it got me puzzled I think the carb is a 770 dual line. I think I need to get the air gap off there and put a performer intake on it. He said spent 2 k on transmission but it needs a stall converter on it. I think carb is vacuum secondary's, needs to be manual I think