Please educate me on the difference and which one to go with. for chevy 454 Now that I have looked into flexplate I see prices from $50. to over $200. what shoud I be looking for?
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Please educate me on the difference and which one to go with. for chevy 454 Now that I have looked into flexplate I see prices from $50. to over $200. what shoud I be looking for?
Not much to figure out, just go to the website and look up the motor. I will say this the Fluid damper is a great product. The timing after installed seemed and felt more precise, motor hits harder.
454: have a look here see if it helps ya.
Chevy Big Block
In my last 20 years as an NHRA techinspector, I saw many Fluidampers used on drag race motors. I'd use the largest diameter unit I could bolt on the crank, like the 800111 with eccentric weight to match up with the eccentric weight on the flexplate/flywheel.
The other option is to use a factory OEM unit that has been rebuilt. Damper Doctor disassembles OEM units and uses new elastomeric material between the hub and the inertia ring, clocked properly for precision ignition timing and pressed together under tremendous hydraulic pressure. Here's their phone number, call 'em up and talk with them about availability and price.
Contact Us
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Ok so should I buy a Fluid Damper and a flexplate at the same time or how do you make them?match, Now that I have looked into flexplates I see prices from$50. to $200. which one should I be looking at?
Not positive on this, but I believe only early 454's are externally balanced which means the dampner and flexplate have to match.
all 454 from gm came with external all years. not the same damper for all of them mark 4 over the years are the same till gen 6 454. 90and up need more on the fly wheel weight and some times come up less weight on the damper and needs to be reworked as some gen 6 454 have a reluctor wheel on crank and gets sandwich in so the over all damper hub is shorter . on dampers i throw old 454 dampers out there is no way i send one out for a rebuild with seal cut on hub . as new there priced right on all new. save that rebuild bul% $hit for a something that can not be found any more . i seen to many beat with a hammer or outer ring with dents in then helcoils and speed sleeves. seen them fail. on some old cast iron parts in a stock damper screw that. on low buck build s i use oem pioneer .i used them no bad feed back and used many. i buy new dampers for engine i build so its not hard to buy over 20 a year. stuff that gets beat the hell out of for street pioneer sfi steel damper .i stop using fluldampr long ago all my big HP builds i use only ATI oh do not forget to check your press and may need to be hone for the right press as race dampers this need to be checked . this can only be done with the right tooling and not a brake hone . a machine shop with sunnen tooling with the CR series mandrel can do this jobQuote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
there s no real way other then do what i do balance it. but it not a easy deal with fluidampr as some came with no hub to take off the outer ring to spin just the hub with counter weight .i have had them this way.but for a time they did not make them this way .i seen the fly wheel weight not come in right so if hi rmp engine it should be re balanced with part your going to use but if there no hub on the damper running the hole damper on the balancing machine it can make the machine huntQuote:
Originally Posted by tominiowa
I won't use a fluid dampner on anything---besides the balancing issues--down the road a bit---like on a race car--hit the wall or even just touch the wheel to wheel with another car--it will cause the weight to move in the fluid and guarantee a broken crank shaft within 2 weks---------this can also happen from spinning the wheels and getting sudden traction and/or even an overly aggressive downshift-----------
them things fly... them ufo.s over the nascar field and hit cars out in the parking lot . that and great way to check the crank noseQuote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
I have a friend who had a blown 468 break the crank snout twice and the machinist said it was due to his fluidampr. He removed it and went to a drive hub with his new crank and he never had another issue. I've also had a couple high rpm 12v 5.9's break cranks at the first journal with fluidampr's. This only happened when a tcase blew up and the engine flared past 5500. The extra weight and inertia of the fluidampr was the only thing we could see that would cause that. We switched to ATI after that.
I thought I wanted a Fluidampner too (and bought one for my Big Block build)-after much consternation (and advise from my Engine Builder), I bought the ATI Superdampner for my 540 (it was cheaper than the Fluidampner to boot)-
Here's another vote for the ATI-
Well how do you choose a flex plate ?
what year do you have ? like i said i seen were a 168 tooth for a mark 4 or mark IV bbc 1970to 89 were the weight was off from brand to brand and like i said if you have a bbc VI or VI so here is some flex numbers mark IV scat SFI scafp-454 sfi .sfi pioneer pio871003 scat V VI scafp-454l-sl ATI damper ati917740 or or street/'strip damper power bond SFI pbbpb1018-ss motor state part number as the ATI damper is small then the stock damper 8inchs ATI is 7.074 you will need a new billet timing pointer like allstar all90022 or ati ati918958 like i said the press needs to be check and honed for the right press fit on crank this can not be over looked . if you need Tech on this or want to be sure you get the right parts first time i am dealer for ATI .TCI . BHJ. Power bond . Romac . McCarthy Performance / Racing Engines to 632+ CubesQuote:
Originally Posted by tominiowa
I am building a genIV 454, .060 over 9.3:1 compression, with 781 heads that were mildly ported and oversize valves installed, basically 400/435 HP will be running a Th-400 I do have a BHJ balancer. just need recommendation for a flexplate.
Tom,Quote:
Originally Posted by tominiowa
If you look at some of the performance tranny places they seem to offer either OEM or "Heavy Duty" flexplates (any link here is added by some outside program), and their HD units are in the $90 range. In the HP range you're running I'd be comfortable choosing a mid-range HD unit from someone like Summit, Jegs, or if you prefer, from a tranny place like Monster Transmissions who package them together every day. Just my $0.02 from a layman's view.
If you are going to track it any you will need an SFI rated one--
HMMM, I went back and read my post and noticed that there are two links embedded that I did not put there, and they say "...added by VigLink". Problem is they are generic advertisement links that don't really fit the text. I suppose this is a feature that may generate a bit of revenue for the forum, but it's not one that I like. I would prefer that the only links embedded in our posts are those that we put there after finding something that we believe adds value to the reply.
And Jerry, I agree totally with your comment about SFI rating, and noted that most, if not all of the mid-range priced flex plates do carry the SFI rating. I think that buying SFI rated rotating equipment makes sense, even if one is not planning to do sanctioned racing. We tend to "play" hard occasionally....
And so as not to over spend on street parts----there ARE SFI speced parts that are available but haven't been tested and dated so they can't be used racing--also if racing you will need to carry current documentation on your parts----------(especially flywheels, bell housings, dampners)
A note to clarify above comment---------there are parts designed and manufactured to the SPECS but have never been CERTIFIED, whish makes them cheaper but high quality still-than the dated and tested parts------
an example are some of the quick time bell housings, etc
No racing, just a cool truck for cruise, Thanks for all your recommendations, it is exactly what I was looking for.
yep you can buy a thick fly wheel 135 thick ..flex plate that has no sfi sticker same wheel. no sticker or just timed out .. past date on wheel .sold many with builds that sfi is not a big deal it is how thick the wheel face plate is helps make it sfi that and a sticker . trans parts guy many not know or care as this is a fly wheel that is spun with a mass as it extenal bal they can off .jerry and i know this guy on the phone may not .but at the end of the day it,s how close you want to be as the fly wheel will not take much to be off as it.s the furthest from crank center line with off set weight as for a less or mild grade i have customers in the real world putting over 1600 hp on them thick wheels