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Thread: Mechanical flat tappet cam
          
   
   

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  1. #6
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
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    Personally, if I were forced to use a flat tappet cam, I'd rather do the flat tappet solid than I would a flat tappet hydraulic.
    You can purchase solid lifters today that have a small 0.012" hole EDM'd in the crown that delivers pressurized oil directly to the cam lobe. You can't do that with a hydraulic lifter.
    http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/...oductId=753217

    You can however, use a tool to cut a groove into the hydraulic lifter bore that will deliver pressurized oil directly to the cam lobe.
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...FY9eQgodoGQAHQ

    As far as the cam you posted a link to, note that Comp advises a minimum 11.0:1 static compression ratio for that stick. At 9.5:1 SCR, the intake valve would close too late to trap enough air/fuel mixture to make a good BANG. This would result in the motor being (as one of my buddies used to say) "a weak-suck operation". At 9.5:1, you would want a lobe that closes the intake valve at around 35 degrees after bottom dead center @0.050" tappet lift. Be careful when comparing solid cams to hydraulic cams. Most solids are rated at 0.020" tappet lift rather than 0.050" tappet lift. Bottom line: The 11-611-5 is too much cam for 9.5:1 SCR. Read this to get an idea of what I'm talking about.......
    http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

    If it were my motor, I'd use 11-218-4 for some snappy street action. Comp suggests minimum 9.0:1 SCR. Your motor, at 9.5:1, would be perfect.
    http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=457&sb=0
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    Last edited by techinspector1; 08-31-2013 at 10:22 AM.
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