Oh and no it makes NO funny noises at idle or under a load or at anytime for that matter the motor had roughly 500 miles on a complete build when I got it as well so it was fresh.
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Oh and no it makes NO funny noises at idle or under a load or at anytime for that matter the motor had roughly 500 miles on a complete build when I got it as well so it was fresh.
Did you get a build and blueprint sheet with the engine, or is this just what the previous owner said??? A "built" engine has so many different definitions, to some it means nothing more then rings, bearings, a lumpy cam, and fresh paint on the block!!!!!
My quesiton would be the same as Techinspector's-whose Pan and Pickup do you have on your 454? Did you verify Pickup depth? What is your clearance on the Mains and Rods? Oil control is often overlooked by many, and it is something to keep you eye on-btw, good for you to watch it, as it's easy to get caught up in the moment when you have the pedal down!
My engine builder had this same type of problem (which is why I went to an Engine Builder in the first place-experience matters!)-I originally bought a nice Moroso kick-out Pan and Pickup, but it wouldn't fit with my Headers (anybody need a new Pan/Pickup for a 502? :mad:)-anyway, I finally found a B&B Pan that would fit (it was a Steel one btw-I don't like Aluminum Pans on the street with my old feeble eyes) and when he got the Pan he modified it-you can see from the pictures that while the Pan originally came with baffles and a trap door that it would not control the slosh, and he also changed the pickup-it worked, and with a Melling select Pump it pulled 60+ psi from 4000-6400 rpm-
(I hope these pictures don't come out too big!)
I agree in the "built" engine term the motor is supposed to be pushing around 650 HP (I have not verified that yet) but is very strong for sure I do not like throwing money away and with a motor I don't know that much about I keep a super close eye on until they gain many trust to be solid motor was balanced but not blueprinted I saw the build sheet from machine shop but don't have a copy of it
OK, so with all of that is the oil change, verify pan level a reasonable, relatively inexpensive approach?
for oil as how many QT of oil you can put in the pan will not matter much as long as its not over filled so lets say you put 4 qt in the pan then filled the filter .say the pan took 5 or6 QT to read full. it.s still going to get oil to pick up as the oil pump pickup is only off the pan bottom 3/8 so long as it has oil its going to get oil PSI some guy get all fancy with traps . and baffles that fine to a point but that really is not your problem less i did read this wrong? the pick up not weld on can move or if pickup fell off. it can not read any oil PSI and pick up is not welded on it can suck to the bottom of pan as well . i seen many pickups suck the pan up were it will wear screen marks on the inside of the pan from pulling the bottom of the pan by draw of the oil pump if to close to bottom of pan . it is not uncommon for me to weld used steel pans over time the pan sump can crack from this . you could have other things going on as well the bypass in the oil pump could be hang open from a small chunk of junk dry cranking the engine is a big No NO as you will tear the bearing s out if you did not start that by now may be a good ideal to pull number #1 main and rod bearing and check this . prime the engine with a primmer . and not dry crank it to check oil PSI
Pat beat me to it, and I was going to agree with Techinspector, verify the clearance between the pickup and the pan bottom. Especially on someone elses "rebuilt / built" motor. Seen a few that the pickup came loose from the pump and got sucked into the pan.
It'll cost you the time and a gasket but that's cheaper than another rebuild / repair! And if the clearance is fine, ensure it's welded!
If it were mine I know I'd pull the pan and see whats going on. Like was said earlier if you keep going you'll be pulling it anyway and will cost a bit more by then. My guess pick up came loose if you turn left you'll push the oil up on the right side of pan turning right pushes oil up the left side....meaning it will get to the pickup turning left??Bottom line its your engine
yep and when you weld it take the pump apart mark the gears with paint mark or marker so they run matched so you take the pump cover off so bypass spring will not over heat you can tack it on with a mig but tap off the screen very good and port .so no pop corn get s in the pump . i tig them on and use bronze fill rod or missile rod
Hmmmm fun this all sounds like a blast
i had this same problem on my350 olds. had good oil pressure when cold and idleing but after a bit of driving it the oil pressure droped to 0-3 psi. it ended up being the main bearings were junk and the motor was not that old. had to rebuilt it so went bigger since it was all apart.
it sure is tempting not to use this thread as a "454 Oil Pressure Pot" at $1 a square
weak humor, I know
well techinspector you lost your $1 the pickup tube fell off!
Hey, thanks for the update! I hope it all worked out for the better tho'!!! Hopefully your "new" motor is ok? Yes/No??