Roller rocker to valve stem marking

I am still working on my BBC conversion in my 68 chop top. I was finally able to get the lifters and roller rockers installed and valve lash set. I used marker dye on the valve stems on #1 and #4 intake and exhaust. I rolled the engine several times and then checked to see where the rollers were marking the valve stem tops. I had a small line across the top of the valve stem. However, the mark was just past center line on the exhaust side of the engine. For those that have done this, the amount of being past center line is the width of the line. How critical is this on a mild street driven motor? If I need to get shorter pushrods, how much shorter to move this amount? Thanks for reading and your replys.

Get an adjustable pushrod, set it's length correct, measure it and order pushrods that length..... Takes all the guesswork out of determining the correct pushrod length.....

there is lot more to this every cam book as a step by step how to do . i do them evey week . i check at mild lift . you will need set up springs .you will have to work out lash for solid cams and work in pre load on hyd cams most of the time it will not change much i still do it . there two ways to go custom push rods or shelf stocking push rods many come in only .050 length on the shelf stocking push rods . so if you need lets say a 7.520 your only going to find a 7.500 or 7.550 but some like Trend Push rod may have what you need in stock if your loking for a 7.520 . other then that it custom made to your size . you need to know that with a hyd that the test springs is not pushing the valving down in the lifter giving you a false read for print out on roller tip . at the end of this there 3 ways push rods are sold . over all on push rod size.Theoretical no oil holes .Actual as to real size but oil holes can throw this off. Gage length pain in the ass .not every one sells push rods like this . so knowing what you need for push rod size is the way you checked for push rods and knowing how they are selling them

Thanks for the reply. The hydraulic roller lifters and roller rockers seem to work just fine. Half turn past zero lash and the motor fired first turn. After just a quick run shutdown to check things and the valve tips are very close to center with just a very thin line. I will call this good.

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

there is lot more to this every cam book as a step by step how to do . i do them evey week . i check at mild lift . you will need set up springs .you will have to work out lash for solid cams and work in pre load on hyd cams most of the time it will not change much i still do it . there two ways to go custom push rods or shelf stocking push rods many come in only .050 length on the shelf stocking push rods . so if you need lets say a 7.520 your only going to find a 7.500 or 7.550 but some like Trend Push rod may have what you need in stock if your loking for a 7.520 . other then that it custom made to your size . you need to know that with a hyd that the test springs is not pushing the valving down in the lifter giving you a false read for print out on roller tip . at the end of this there 3 ways push rods are sold . over all on push rod size.Theoretical no oil holes .Actual as to real size but oil holes can throw this off. Gage length pain in the ass .not every one sells push rods like this . so knowing what you need for push rod size is the way you checked for push rods and knowing how they are selling them

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I am trying to apply this to my dodge 318. What are test springs? I'm guessing they are pretty weak.

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Originally Posted by firebird77clone

I am trying to apply this to my dodge 318. What are test springs? I'm guessing they are pretty weak.

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Something like these from JEGS - JEGS Performance Products 80523 JEGS Valvetrain Checking Springs ; or one of these from Summit - http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...cking%20spring Or just go to your local hardware store and find some light springs of the right diameter and cut to length.