I have seen a couple of blocks now that have had the lifter gallery painted with some sort of coating, is there any advantage to this or is it cosmetic.
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I have seen a couple of blocks now that have had the lifter gallery painted with some sort of coating, is there any advantage to this or is it cosmetic.
faster oil return but if not done right it will end up in the oil pan and pick up thru the oil . help s seal iron pours .the stuff is motor winding paint called glyptal
I have gallons of glyptal at work, should i just tank the block or blast the lifter gallery. this block is a little rusty so i was planning on blasting it anyway. Pat i know you have built a pile of 427t engines, so how much of the pan rail do i have to mil off for the 4.5 crank. or should i just wait till i have the rotating assembly together and check the clearance then. machining is no problem, I have a mill at work and a whole winter to work on it.
Gastrick on here is one of those people who do everything right (don't you just hate those guys?:LOL:) Here is a picture of an engine he and his Pop are building for his Dad's Willys. He used that stuff. I see Eastwood has it, among other places.
Don
you do not have to blast i would not blast it less it very bad. sand i just do not like to use .it but that would work you would need to get it blasted first before any machine work to block then wash it to get all honing oil out of block and cover your lifter bores or the sand may mess with the lifer bores and will need a tune up with a hone .for what will clear the pan rails you will have to nip the bores bottoms as well so you want only cut the mim of block out of the way so wait to short block mock up some guys just POLISH the in sides POLISH IRON WILL NOT PEEL OFF:3dSMILE:now that guy i do know:3dSMILE:
Glyptal should be applied over a spotlessly clean surface. In electrical work, we cleaned with contact cleaner and blew it dry. In an engine, I would do all the machining and other prep, then degrease it all, plug the lifter bores with something like rubber corks, hit it again with the contact cleaner or some other degreaser that does not leave residue, then paint the Glyptal on with a brush. We never thinned it, but if memory serves me right, it can be thinned; the idea is to seal the pores of the iron, and get as smooth a surface as possible. Done this way, it should not be any problem; but if there is any residual oil or silicone, it will not stick, and WILL come off. You can also do the crankcase, and the heads like shown in the pics Don put up. A correct Glyptal surface is super slick, and it really will expedite oil drainback.
but i was thinking why not paint the whole engine ( outside of block) with glyptal. since this is a mud bogger engine it would definately be easier to clean. Now i just have to see what colors i have at work.