Thanks for the replies guys.

Well, I got a few things done. I used the ring and feeler gauge method to check the cylinders for taper and they're really not too bad. Five of them are around .0016 and the others about .0024. This doesn't tell me the actual bore size but my piston clearance is still closer to tight than not. The pistons look pretty good too. The skirts don't have any scuffs or signs of overheating but one piston had a broken ring and the grove is a little wide in one spot.
The crank looks good except for some scatches on the front and rear mains. The journals all measured up well within standard, round and without taper. I think I'll just polish it up and run it.
The heads are a done deal. I'm just pulling them off my other engine. They were just completely reworked with springs to match the cam and 3/8 guide plates.
When all is said and done I think I'm just gonna deglaze the cylinders, polish the crank and get it back together. I do feel a little better about it though now that I got some input as to what to look for, thanks again. Pat, you mentioned getting a good cross pattern from a bead hone. Is this better than using the stone honer? I read in one of these rebuild books to use the 220 stones very slowly for a good pattern. You think it'll take off too much material?

I would love to go with a roller cam but just can't swing the entire set up right now. I think this time around I will stick to the flat tappet and take some extra care in breaking it in. I think I read in a thread somewhere to use molly on the lobes, break in additive and zinc additive to the oil and lighten up the spring load by pulling out the 2nd spring. In a stock performance application like mine, how can you tell the cam is wasted? I mean performance wise where do you see it most?

OK lastly for now, why not WD40 on the block to keep the surface rust off after a bath? Does it break the oil down or something?

Thanks again for the input. It has helped alot.