Thread: 427 Evacuation Question
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12-06-2008 09:29 AM #1
427 Evacuation Question
Hello everyone i just spent the last 6 hours reading in this forum and learned a tremendous amount of information thank you.
I am building my first big block for the track a 427.
I have what everyone is calling small oval closed chamber heads, and i am told what i am doing will work great for a bracket car but I am bieng advised to put in a evacuation kit through my headers to pull exces vacum out of the engine, i have seen this done on alot of engines, is it worth my time to drill and tap the hreaders and install this? what will I gain or any at all?
Thanks..
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12-07-2008 10:18 AM #2
Yes its worth it, but its not drill and tap operation
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12-07-2008 10:44 AM #3
Jerry Clayton; Will you educate me on this technique, I don't know about this.
Please thanks. Kurt
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12-07-2008 08:41 PM #4
Summit sells a fairly inexpensive kit for pan evacuation:
qty.
Summit SUM-120108 $39.95
Estimated Ship Date: Tomorrow
Brand: Summit
Product Line: Summit® Crankcase Evacuation Systems
Part Type: Crankcase Evacuation Systems
Part Number: SUM-120108
Valve Cover Breathers Included: Yes
Breather Material: Steel
Breather Finish: Chrome
Check Valves Included: Yes
Check Valve Material: Steel
Check Valve Finish: Gold iridited
Evacuation Hose Included: No
Weld-In Nipples for Header Included: Yes
Valve Cover Grommets Included: Yes
Grommet Material (descriptive): Rubber
Quantity: Sold as a kit.
Crankcase Evacuation System, Steel, Chrome/Gold Iridited, Universal, Kit
Evacuate your crankcase.
Our Summit® crankcase evacuation systems are designed for drag race use only. These systems maintain negative crankcase pressure throughout the rpm range, increasing piston ring seal, and reducing intake charge contamination.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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12-08-2008 06:45 AM #5
Nipples for headers are weld ins-----everything else is just put together unless you use a check valve into the intake which will take some drill and tapping
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12-08-2008 07:06 AM #6
a vacuum pump is what some guys use they say work s better then the v u pan set up they pull abit at wot but never seen any one see how much they will pull you need two egr valves and two chrysler beather and if you have the nipples them your done if no nipples then it is a trip to the hard ware store for the pipe i think it 1/2 you need to cut it at a 45 about 1 to 2 inchs in would have to with what size of the collector and have the back side of the 45 to front of the engine to keep the ex psi working the valve need to work from draw as the ex gas pass by making a vacuum they do not work on the street with a ex know matter how big any back pressure will block the EGR valves and it will blow oil out your dip stick tub i put them in every race header set i made i tried this set up 3 times on the street with 3inch and 3 1/2 and 4 it never work i still think it could with two more bearther on a puke tank and pull from the tank but there could be some oil getting blow down thru your ex but still would not work that good on the street you would never see much vaacumLast edited by pat mccarthy; 12-08-2008 at 07:14 AM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
Welcome to CHR. I think that you need to hook up your vacuum advance. At part throttle when cruising you have less air and fuel in each cylinder, and the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed...
MSD 8360 distributor vacuum advance