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OK i have a stock oil pan that measures 7 1/2 with a straight edge to the bottom. i have a Melling High Volume Oil Pump MEL-M77HV and i hear they are lower so the picup will be lower in the pan and might hit the bottom. which oil pump pickup will i need? if u have part Numbers that would be great
I would never run a hi-volume pump with a stock pan.Quote:
Originally Posted by BBMonte
You may just start to suck air.
You may want to check the pump before you buy a different one.
To check it: torque the pump down, and with engine upside down on stand, put some playdough or modeling clay on the pick-up. Next put the gasket on dry and gently put the pan on, and torque down the pan bolts. Next, remove the pan, easily cut the clay in half and measure the thickness.The clearance you're looking for is about 1/2 inch.
If I'm wrong on the clearance,somebody correct me;but I think this is right:)
I would try this first bud; you can't always go by what you hear!:D
You know the depth of your pan from the pan rail, now hold a straightedge across the pump and measure to the pan bolt surface. I like to run my pickups about 1/4" off the bottom. To get the distance correct, move the pickup tube in the pump, make sure it fits tight when you are done. Many builders put a small weld on the tube to secure it to the pan, or run a strap from the pickup tube to the pump bolt. Don't forget to put the compressed thickness of the gasket into the measurement. I also will not run a hi volume pump with a stock capacity pan, you can cavitate the pump....an oil pan that holds an extra quart IMO is good insurance when running a hi-volume pump....
that ok 3/8 is what i shoot for with out a gasket and that m77hv will not do you any good with the stock small pan you could suck it dry like erik said. you will use more power to the hv pump turn it i tack weld the pick up on you could run the two qt truck fillter
well i did here about sucking it dry. so i was all so thinking to get a 6 Qt pan but i cant fined one on line that is under $100 other then E-Bay
well what do u think of this one? it all so need it to fit my 86 Monte
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-...QQcmdZViewItem
I run high volume pumps on every SBC I build and never had a problem. Good pressure at 7000 rpm on the wilder ones. Just clean up the drain back holes in the block and heads. Painting the valley helps too, maybe, never done it but heard lots of guys swear by it.
Chevys have a little bitty pump stock, anything is an improvement. The hi-vo pumps don't flow any more than a stocker once the relief valve opens, the main benefit is at lower revs before it opens.
Again I would never run a stock pan with a hi-volume pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by R Pope
Even a 7.50 bracket car with a good suspension will tend to un-cover the oil pump pick-up when the car leaves.
I will take a stock pump and shim the spring and de-burr the rotors and make sure I have the right amount of end play.
If I had a 7qt. fully baffeled pan then of course I would run a hi-volume pump.
The old paint the lifter valley trick is very risky.
I would rather spend the time to open up all the return holes and do some polishing.
I picked way too much of that valley paint out of my dry sump screens and filters to ever bother with that again!!!!!
well what do u guys think of that oil pan i listed?
i can tell you alot about them pans ?? alot ....the pickup will not fit in your pump you will have to file the hell out of it then you will need to weld the pickup to the pump if you file off to much .then you will have to weld to hole pick up to the pump body so not to suck air the baffles are thin metal they are never welded in good. i weld them in better with the tig .there is a over lap were the bottom is weld on you need to hammer this out this is the back of the pan. if not the oil pump body will hold the pan forward and you can not get the bolts in the oil pan all this stuff needs to be check before you glue it down, yep i know this guy thats good at that block prep works and fast at it to:3dSMILE:
well i orderd it i have a mig welder at work so if i need to tack it up i think i can do it there what is the pump made of steel or iron? becus u cant mig on iron
that block looks nice up there
P.S. pat i am picking up the block for the shop on tusday :-) i had it decked and had them fix what the other shop f****ed up naver poled the oil plugs out to cleen the oil passage ways
oil pump body is iron ..i use the tig with missile rod but i have tack them on with a mig to it works if you want to go all the way around gas welding with brass /brazing rod. if so take the bypass spring out and valve . put it back in when cools. DO not cool in water or blow it cool let it cool down by it self make sure the by pass valve works free . brazing works very good to fix iron to but you must get all that glass fluxs of the joint . and you may want to loose the F on the uck they like to keep it a family form ....THANKS
Quote:
Originally Posted by R Pope
I've done clean up on the drain back holes and painted the valley before.I used a glyptal paint that is used on electric motors,it can withstand the heat and it dries to an epoxy like finish. I tore one of the engines down for a rebuild last year and not a speck of paint had come off, and this engine had been ran really hard.
On the other hand I really like the looks of the block that Pat posted,I'm going to start doing that from now on. I've never had a problem with the paint, but I've always worried about it flaking off if the metal underneath wasn't perfectly clean.