Quote Originally Posted by dusty1025
Thanks for the info guys. This really helps me out. Forgive my ignorance pat but you said i could use a shelf piston in a "srp -je" I don't know what that means.

Also, is there any advantage to using a 6.800 rod over the 6.535 rod. Will it develop more torque with the slightly longer rod?

I bought the engine as a complete long block, Are the stock heads (oval port with big chambers) a waste of time or is there anything I can do to them to make them perform OK. I'm planning on 450-500 hp for regular street use.

I'm planning on a 4.5 inch crank and H-Beam rods from Ohio Crankshaft. They are the cheapest I've found, but I've never heard anything about the quality of their products. Any opinions?

How well do the intake manifold spacers work? should I Just buy a tall deck manifold or do the spacers work without too much headache.

Thanks again guys, I'm learning alot reading your old posts. I appreciate all of your input.
The 450 - 500 is very easy.The "shelf-pistons" means a piston in-stock and not-custom made.I like horsepower.I say sell your heads get some good alum. heads so you can make 600+ hp on pump gas.
Ohio cranks are o.k.The Eagle,Scat,Ohio,Cat are all imported cranks.
Don't worry you will never break one on the street.
I always try to run the longest rod possible to keep a good rod ratio in the engine.
We can talk about why you should run a long rod later on.
If you can afford to run a hyd. roller cam do it.This way you don't have to adust the valves.Yes they are more money.
Like I said before I like horsepower.I would run a tall deck intake with a single Dominator style carb.You will also have to run a distributor with a "slip-collar" because the block is .400 taller.
I am sorry if sounds like I have spent your money.
I just hate to see you waste that block on a 450-500 build.