was 572 with 871 blower.

an update on the build up.

most of all parts I have ordered are in and the build will start soon .

here I will list the parts used in the build.

the block is a world's merlin lite aluminum block with a deck height of 10.200'' and a will have a finished bore of 4.500"
summit part#WRL-083111 -, $3,695.95

block specs are,
* Block material: 357-T6 aluminum
* Deck height: 10.200 in. (tall deck)
* Deck thickness: .600 in. minimum
* Cam bearings: Standard Chevy big block set
* Main bearings: Standard Chevy
* Camshaft location: Stock
* Lifter bores: Indexed (stock .875 in. bore)
* Water jackets: Expanded for better cooling
* Lubrication: Priority main oiling system
* Oil system features: Integral boss for front feed; boss for rear scavenge rear main cap has provisions for wet sump pump; drilled for dry sump valley scavenge lines; cross-feed lines between left and right lifter oil galleys
* Filtration: Integral mount for spin-on filter
* Oil pan rails: Stock width can be clearanced for strokers
* Main caps: Splayed billet
* Mounts: OEM starter and oil filter mounts
* Block: Side ribs for extra strength and cooling
* Motor mounts: Dual (front and side)
* Cylinder head holes: Blind tapped to prevent leaks
* Weight: Approximately 140 lbs. with sleeves--ready to run

the crankshaft is a LUNATI BBC Pro Series Crankshaft, Stroke 4.750, 2.750 Main Bearing, 2.200 Rod Journals, Minimum Rod Length 6.700, Crank Weight 78–80 Lbs. scoggin dickey part# LUNBS421MN- $1,699.99

Using King, Alecular Pro Series Bearings. Rod Bearing Part # CR849HP-$52.95, Main Bearing # MB5147HP- $59.95

connecting rods are lunati Pro Billet Connecting Rods 6.700 Length, 2.200 Crank Journal, .992 Rod Width, .990 Bushed Pin, Rod Weight 855–860 Grams, sdpc2000.com part#LUNLBO2 $1,097.99

pistons are a set of JE tall deck inverted dome pistons sdpc2000.com part#JE181994 -$855.92
rings are Childs and Albert ZGS 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 rings ordered directly from jegs part# RS-53ZX4.505 $414.99

I must pause for now and get back in a few min. thanks

Timing set is a BB Chevrolet Standard Jesel Belt Drive system sdpc2000.com part #KBD-32000 $900.

harmonic balancer is a ATI 7” Aluminum Damper internal balancer. jegs part #085-917300 $389.99

heads are AFR BB-Chevy Competition Aluminum Cylinder Heads jegs part #033-20108035 $5,879.98
Competition 5-angle Valve Job Intake Valve, 2.250'' stainless steel Exhaust Valve, 1.880'' stainless steel 1.625'' OD Roller Dual Valve Spring with dampner, 240 lbs. on seat, .750'' maximum lift
10º Chrome Moly Retainers 10º Chrome Moly Valve Locks Valve Seals Hardened Shims Intake Valve Seats Exhaust Valve Seats
Bronze Valve Guides Intake Bronze Valve Guides Exhaust
Guide Plates 7/16'' ARP Exhaust Rocker Studs and 7/16'' Intake Rocker Studs .

Milodon Copper Head Gaskets Bore: 4.500-4.530'' Thick: .040'' jegs part #697-40015 $153.98

I will be using a adjustable pushrod length check'r before ordering a set of 3/8” Manley 4130 Steel 1 Piece Design rods

and camshaft and lifters , I have not ordered them just yet.

oil pump is a Moroso Billet Aluminum Gerotor Oil Pump jegs part#710-22167 $459.99

Oil Pan will be custom fabricated, and powder coated , along with the engine block and transmission with mirror red powder from eastwood.

and a BDS 10-71 polished stage 3 blower with intercooler and EFI bugcatcher kit. I have not ordered this as of yet.

the headers will be a custom fabricated out of stainless steel, mostly for good looks with Stepped primary tubes.

I will post more updates as soon as I decide what to order and as I get more info. thanks in advance.

i would not run the copper head gaskets i would use the multi-layer steel cometics. copper head gaskets are a pain in the ass you will not blow the cometics out. you will make more hp with the ss headers . i wound get the piston tops coated and the head chambers to

Quote:

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Originally posted by pat mccarthy
i would not run the copper head gaskets i would use the multi-layer steel cometics. copper head gaskets are a pain in the ass

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I will second what Pat says.The Cometic gaskets are some of the best out there.No messing with o-ringing anything.

thanks. will do.

Im waiting on snail mail to get some more catalogs and reading materials. and to get more info on part specs before I order the rest of the parts.

If I run into some unforseen problems or make any mistakes, I would be thankfull in any suggestions or corrections you have to offer.

I have always had good luck with ss headers. I have never tried the coated headers. or for that matter I have never used any coating's on heads or pistons.

what would be the best way to prep the block for powder coating?

the SS headers will move more heat out of the tubes then a steel coated header .i would not powder coat the block or the heads if any of that powder coating gets some were you do not want it .you will have a hell of a time geting it off . and it may not stick so hot on some of the machined spots on the block. and heads this may be a good spot for it to fall off? it will hold heat in? why paint or powder coat a aluminum block??

powder coating was for looks only.

I had thought about polishing the block and heads, but im not so sure if it will look right and would take a lot of work to keep it shinny.

i like the one i have just the way it came out of the box. and i paid alot of money for it. i want every one that looks at it to know it is all aluminum from oilpan to intake

how do you keep it clean? and turning a grayish white?

I have had aluminum intakes on small blocks and I have tried just about every thing I could think of to keep it clean, and in the process I have made some much worse. and the only thing that I could think of to do then was paint them.

It takes tons of elbow grease. I been using Wenol pollish. It works pretty well. All my aluminum looks great.

Quote:

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Originally posted by fordsfairlane
how do you keep it clean? and turning a grayish white?

I have had aluminum intakes on small blocks and I have tried just about every thing I could think of to keep it clean, and in the process I have made some much worse. and the only thing that I could think of to do then was paint them.

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if you do not run this in the rain or water puddles and keep it in a dry garage it will look fine they make rim cleaner that works very good to keep the cast aluminum looking good. it will not turn it white. my blower is harder to keep clean then my aluminum block water spots on the blower case .try never to get water on the blower when it hot or soap. i do not wash the engine evey time i wash the car i blow the car off with air if it get dusty water and soap is not that good for your car or truck any way. intakes get bad from water sitting on them and not dry them off but the block will not there is no place for the water to sit on it. the best thing to do is not put alot of junk on it spay cleaners and soap etc i have never did any thing to mine and it is four years old

YEA! I know about the soap on hot aluminum intakes. and I have tryed the mag wheel cleaner, with bad result, maybe the aluminum was to hot then also.

could a clear type sealer be sprayed on a high temp aluminum block?

my problem is that when I look at a car, I get filthy and have a bad habbit of getting my greesy hand on just about everything.

the 350 crate engine thats in my pontiac firebird has hand prints on the cast aluminum parts. and I cant find anything that will get them clean. I have used hand cleaner, foaming engine degreaser, and it still looks like crap, so it has been about 1 1/2 years now. and I am afraid to take a picture of it with the way it looks.

what do you use on the blower to keep it polished?

and I dont like Wenol pollish. I think it's to ruff on polished aluminum. I used it once on a set of $3,500. wheels and it left fine scratches and just seemed to dull them.

never dull on the blower and on the cast aluminum i use meguiars hot rims all wheel cleaner .i have been using a lot of this on aluminum heads the intakes when i am done working on them for the final wash. i have used paint on intakes it was PPG DAU 75 clear but it is not100% gas proof and work ok. it would i think work good on the block

thanks. I picked up some of the PPG clear and the meguiars you suggested.

im going to mask up any gasket surfaces and plug bolt holes and then spray the clear on the parts I have and let them dry good for a few days .

if I get things a little more organized in my shop and what im doing as far as projects. " shop looks like Hurricane Katrina had hit" I will post some pictures when I get things presentable.