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Hi,
i wana figure out if the main and rod journals on a forged 427 crank have been cut down or if they're standard. The upper main bearing has a symbol (attached), and next to the symbol it has the numbers 5203. The lower has the same symbol and the numbers 5202. and nothing else is stapmed on them.
The rod bearings have the same symbol and the numbers 5177 stamped on them...and nothing else.
Is my crank std., 10 under,20 under?
thanks for your help
if it was cut it would have how much stamped on the back of the bearing .010 or .020 sometimes it will have std. on it. sounds like its std.
Take the crank to an automotive machine shop. They will usually mike it for free.
i seen this i think it is vander built bearing. i think the spelling may not be rigth. the company was sold many times and they went down hill. they had a three pices rear main bearing that looked from the back side look like it was snap two gether. mich used the bearing make up and call it the v bearing much better bearing . you can measure the thickness of the bearings too this will tell you if they are stand ckeck in the milddle a lot of bearings have some to them eccentricity but when i bulid a engine i check the crank with a micrometer and the bore of the rod and the block with dial gage and put the bearings in with the crank out torque the bolts up to spec and set mic off the crank and setup the dial gage off the crank measurement and put dail gage back in the bore this will give you oil running clearances and do the rods the same way you should have a rod vise and you can plastigage to. but this is much better .if you know some one with mic s to set it all up this is the way i do it but there is a couple ways:whacked:
plasti-gauge, now thats a word you don't hear to often anymore. not to long ago we did most of our motor overhauls in the car, you would get, if you was lucky about 80,000 to 100,000 miles on the new motor, then you would do a ring job and get another 60,000 to 75,000 out of the block before you pulled the motor out and had it bored and new pistons put in. we didn't have any mic.,(you couldn't get the mic.'s to the shaft in the car) so we used plasti-gauge to determine how much the crank was worn and you could buy .001, .002 and i think .003 oversized bearings to take up the slack. you could also use shim stock to shim the bearings out, if you couldnt get oversized bearings. if the block was worn to bad we would have the pistons knurled so the pistons wouldn't knock. sometimes you had no way to knurl the pistons, so you drove it with the piston knock.( now these was the good old days). this is a little write up about plasti-gauge . :rolleyes:
http://www.plastigauge.co.uk/howitworks.htm
Ha, Pat! I was cleaning out a "junk" drawer in my rollaway a while back, and came across some old red and green Plastigage in the sleeves. I know it has been in there since the early eighties, and it just sort of fell apart when I took it out of the sleeve.
couldn't go to work without it. :HMMM: **)Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
:LOL: So, Rambler, I guess you need some new stuff, or are we not using it any more ?
Mike, that was the best stuff to come about. Took a lot of time out of checking clearances, including tapered journels. Great stuff. Mine is still good. :LOL:
Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
:confused: So, is this link dead now ? Or, is mikekgvk going to let us know what's going on ? Waiting !!
:LOL:
you can wait, but i wouldn't hold my breath. :CRY: :LOL:
Plastiguage is great stuff. I never did real well with a mike, so untill digital calipers came out, I plastiguaged it. It was more of a go-no go situation. I remember back then, stuffing a 318 into a Dart in shop class. We got several engines donated, took them apart, swapped parts untill we got a good engine. New bearings, rings. We did the head work. It took all school year, but it eventually ran, and ran for some time.
The auto parts store down the street does not carry it. It has to be ordered.
Hi guys,
i cant use plastigauge cuase i have the crank out of the motor and threw out all but a few of the old bearings. i have the crank for sale on ebay. i'm gonna go get a mic gauge and put it on the journals to make sure what size they are.
thanks for your reply's everyone
Grandpa told me he did a lot of 'experiementing' with plastigauge, and in his opinion it wasn't worth a $hit. He said its accuracy varied with temperature, etc.
I seem to recall that plastiguage must be done with a dry assembly.. is that right?
i dont understand that statement at all. what was he doing with it. its was the only way to check clearances in the car and still is far as i know. nobody said it was 100% acct. it put you in the ball park. what did he use, nothing? :confused:Quote:
Originally posted by firebird77clone
Grandpa told me he did a lot of 'experiementing' with plastigauge, and in his opinion it wasn't worth a $hit. He said its accuracy varied with temperature, etc.
I seem to recall that plastiguage must be done with a dry assembly.. is that right?
Plastiguage will tell you what the oil film clearances are, but not the bearing undersize.
the first time i ever saw any Plastiguage my brother was laying under a bus, with the oil pan off checking the clearances on a crankshaft to see how much ware he had, so he would know what size bearings to go back with. his choices was .001, .002, or .003. if it was worn more than that then he would have pulled the motor and had the shaft turned to .010. i call that checking for bearing size. :HMMM:
Back before Plastigage, we would shim a bearing with shim stock and try to turn the crank (by hand, of course!). When it wouldn't turn easy, you got some idea of the clearances. Crude, and lots of room for error. And engine damage. Plastigage forever!
when i set a crank i like to be +.0002 or-0002 .and OR would be my size do not think you will see this with plastic .room temp 70 + and the mics to i have seen plastic it to be off but do wath you want. i will use my mics:confused: :LOL:
you cant mic. a shaft in the car.
not many of the stuff i work on you can get the pan off and you must have a point that is the same to know were you are going with the clearance you are taking up .do not make fun about me i know where my clearance are and i do not have a lab or a lab coat BUT this is were i like to be dead on so when it the engine come down. i look at the bearings i and tell were i want the running clearance at so HA do not check your running clearance this close i do not give a dam i am telling you how i do it and Denn where are you keep that mic that it is geting that warm ??:HMMM: :LOL: :LOL:
plasti-gauge, now thats a word you don't hear to often anymore. not to long ago we did most of our motor overhauls in the car, you would get, if you was lucky about 80,000 to 100,000 miles on the new motor, then you would do a ring job and get another 60,000 to 75,000 out of the block before you pulled the motor out and had it bored and new pistons put in. we didn't have any mic.,(you couldn't get the mic.'s to the shaft in the car) so we used plasti-gauge to determine how much the crank was worn and you could buy .001, .002 and i think .003 oversized bearings to take up the slack. you could also use shim stock to shim the bearings out, if you couldnt get oversized bearings. if the block was worn to bad we would have the pistons knurled so the pistons wouldn't knock. sometimes you had no way to knurl the pistons, so you drove it with the piston knock.( now these was the good old days). this is a little write up about plasti-gauge .
this is how it started pat. what you use it for is one thing, and what i was talking about is another. it works for both. you've never done what i'm talking about probably. i'm talking overhaul in car, used to be the SOP. :cool:
yes i have i just laid under a freinds vett that on low 9 and put a set of lower in . and denn i do know that .but the mic is in my hands not my forhead. and of this lab .all my stuff is set in the same places i have work on car and boats i did got start yesterday. but the way my back is. the all the stuff i have to take pills just to try to make a living i do not lay under car on cold shop floors .i do not think you know me that is ok but i do not need crap i like to do the best i can and i use mic.:whacked:
pat, after i get my shaft and rods back from the machine shop and put the shaft in the block the last thing im gonna do is check my bearing clearances, and the only way i know how to do it is with plasti-gauge. you cant use a mic. to check the rod or main bearing clearances that i know of. :HMMM:
no i do not. you have35 years.i do not know what to say here ? do my rod recon with the same mics. and dial bore gage for the final.i do 90% of my machine work. i can hear you say big deal ? it is to me . as fare as what i use as my tools. i am as proud of them as my cars. my mic s are mitutoyo and the bodys are insolated so you would have to be dam hot to get it to read different and my dail bores are sunnen and mitutoyo and to finsh off i have starrett. federal. stuff mercruy balanced protractor i bore and hone with all of them same mics as i do all work at the shop. it gets check with all the same tools to finshed.I never said much when i signd on so here i go a bit about me i have done body work. and welding for31years and machine shop work20 years lathe and mill.i have done metal finsh work .no bond .lead work and painted and have built engines that long to alot of big block from 396to632+tall and short decks. small blocks to four supercharged engines up to 548 and one duel turbo 540 with a lenco trans and i have built some steet rods and for 10 years built headers and work on ford 9 s set alot of them up for drag cars my engine work has to be rigth it get ran very hard evey thing i do get check many times no chance of fuze :whacked:
i prefer not to take about fiberglass and smc i have did way to much of that i wanted to keep it short but i have painted air planes arobatices type. and sprayed lots of bad types of paints. have the lungs to prove it. and welding i have a linoln 275 tig i can blow all the fuse out of the shop with:mad:have a 250X miller mig and some old flat belt stuff a very old carrolin jaimson 14 swing lathe and 36 oliver bad saw and a j head brigeport and a sunnen rod machine and storm vunlcan block master and some neway and sioux air and electric vavle stuff what i can not buy for a good deal i make. like my honing machine to hone block out in works geat :whacked:
hit the wrong key. i screw up.I did think you were. but i some times a i have to vent hot headed IRISHMAN .ya i worked hard and not smart and have the body of a very old man:(
ouch:HMMM:
Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
:LOL: I thought you thought that. That's when I looked close at the smilie guys. :) Don't feel bad on the Irishman. I'm Irish, Dutch, and Cherokee, :LOL: :LOL: And, I'm a Scorpio to boot. :LOL:
now we know the truth, why you're so screw up. :LOL: i'm gonna put my plasti-gauge back in my tool box and go home. :HMMM: :LOL: