427 Build Question

Hello,
I have a 1968 427 Block # 396321 with 10 1/2 to 1 Pistons, the heads are 1969 # 3964291 closed chamber heads, I have a GM Alum.Intake 3939163, 400 TH tranny and 2200 Stall converter , 373 posi rear end, MSD ignition system and a single pump 750 Holley with vacume secondary and Headers. Now my question, What would be a good cam for a steet ( Play Toy ) ???? I have a 1968 Buick Sylark I want to slide this in. I am doing a complete rebuild. Also I am new at this so be kind.

Thank You, Bob



Thanks, But I will Pass on the VERBAL DYNO.

Bob, have I got a deal for you.....It's called VERBAL DYNO.....just tell me what you want the hp and torque to be and send $9.95. I'll rush a dyno sheet to you via return mail so you can amaze all your buddies.....

P.S. Albion isn't in Canada is it? Prices are higher in Canada.

Bob, seriously, I see such-and-such compression ratio pistons listed all the time. Those figures mean nothing when figuring compression ratio and you must know the correct c.r. in order to choose the correct cam. Here's the info needed.
bore
stroke
combustion chamber cc's
bore and compressed thickness of the head gasket
piston deck
piston crown configuration, dome, flat-top, flat-top with valve notches, dish, dish cc's
So, you see, 10 1/2 to 1 pistons means nothing

Bob, TechInspector is right, you have to know your actual c/r before you move any further, anything else would be just guessing, and that's no good. Those heads are pretty good for GM heads, Im using them on my 505. But they're pretty large intake runners (325cc), making them a better high rpm head...not to say they wont work OK on the street, but you might give up a little torque with a 427. They are 107cc (maybe 108) in chamber size, so you can get a decent c/r with flat top pistons (maybe 9/1) depending on the other variables mentioned. I personally would go with a solid lifter cam, but that's just me. Some people dont like the noisy clatter (its not that bad). Dont let anyone tell you that you have to adjust solid lifters all the time, once they're set and run for awhile, you just set them maybe once a year. A solid cam will rev higher than a hydraulic. Im basing this on your heads alone. Is this strictly a street car? Cam will probably come out to be somewhere around 230 or so duration at .050, and around .540 or .550 lift. (Flat tappet cam) 110 LSA is good, 112 would be a little smoother idle. I would dump the intake, the aftermarket intakes have come a long way over the GM ones from years ago. Maybe a nice Performer RPM or Air Gap. Carb is good. Gears are good for general driving, but I would lean to a bigger stall. That 2200 will also limit your cam choice. My current stall is 3200, and it's fine on the street. (I run a cooler also) Thats gonna be one killer Buick. You have some research to do. Go with a smaller cam company for good info, the bigger ones will only suggest something out of the catalog. Try Howard's Cams, 920-233-5228. Keep us posted on your progress. John

Thank You, Both. I have another intake, Elderbrock Torker #TM2R I can use instead of the GM. I will give you more info as I find out what I have, I just bought the 427 two weeks ago and Have a lot to learn. After reading and surfing the net I see I have a long way to go and see just how much I don't know. This is the first build for me. I found a good Machine shop after talking to a lot of people. Here is a couple Pictures of the car.

Thank You, Bob
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...l1953/Side.jpg[/IMG]

i have run 9 s and 8 s on the street 4500 stalls with 3.80and430. and 3.50 and 4.11 gears all this stuff will work on the street with a big block but what you have to ask your self is what do need this car to do?? i have had race engines on the street for over 20 years 454s 468s 475 548s 572 620 + engines on the street .the cam ? 680 to750 lift rollersand compression 10 to 1 to all the way to14 to 5. as for the cam it like this are you pistons a stock type TRW ?if so you can not put to much cam in this engine i would run a roller soild or soild flat cam with direct lube solid lifters use them they are the best next to a roller heres something to think about are you going to drive this on the hi way?? if you put to much cam in it you will be going down the hi way at over 80.mph before the cam works and the hi stall converter will be crap in no time flat so it is like this you will need a true 3500 stall converter use bm trans cooler and for the cam the old stand by one of the most copied cams the L88 this will get the job done this cam has been use on 9-1/2 engines and up intake team g or rpm air gap I would use the team g this is a geat intake and I have used many. do not mess with the gear you would be a dummy to put more gear in it you will never hook it you will need good set of b f drag radials this is somthing you can have fun with and sound good run a3inch exhaust this is a good size cam and so is the stall but thats what you wanted??

i have run 9 s and 8 s on the street 4500 stalls with 3.80and430. and 3.50 and 4.11 gears all this stuff will work on the street with a big block but what you have to ask your self is what do need this car to do?? i have had race engines on the street for over 20 years 454s 468s 475 548s 572 620 + engines on the street .the cam ? 680 to750 lift rollersand compression 10 to 1 to all the way to14 to 5. as for the cam it like this are you pistons a stock type TRW ?if so you can not put to much cam in this engine i would run a roller soild or soild flat cam with direct lube solid lifters use them they are the best next to a roller heres something to think about are you going to drive this on the hi way?? if you put to much cam in it you will be going down the hi way at over 80.mph before the cam works and the hi stall converter will be crap in no time flat so it is like this you will need a true 3500 stall converter use bm trans cooler and for the cam the old stand by one of the most copied cams the L88 this will get the job done this cam has been use on 9-1/2 engines and up intake team g or rpm air gap I would use the team g this is a geat intake and I have used many. do not mess with the gear you would be a dummy to put more gear in it you will never hook it you will need good set of b f drag radials this is somthing you can have fun with and sound good run a3inch exhaust this is a good size cam and so is the stall but thats what you wanted??:whacked:

Pat, what's wrong with your eyes, man? They look messed up......too much cam degreeing I think, made you cross eyed. And you're seeing double, cause you posted twice!!!!

what can i say some times you know? what can i say i think well?? am i to young to get old timers???:whacked: :whacked: :whacked:

Old timers, huh?? I know I have that already!! I called Howard's Cams today to see if they can re-grind my solid roller a little and give me more duration. Finally getting close to doing this 505.

i have one that can be cut down . i hope to have it out the first of june it is big and it is on a 112 it is a howards it cheaper to buy a new one??

No, they want 150 bucks to regrind, and a new roller is 279.00 for a custom grind...229.00 for off the shelf. But they cant grind mine to what I want. Im just gonna use the one I have for now. If Im not happy with it (and Im sure I will be) I figure a cam change later is easy.