HELP! with the 427T/540ci.

I purchased a 427T thats been bored to 4.375 with a 4.5" stroke, been balanced and has been run in a marine application, but now I want to put this giant 540 ci on the street in my 72 chevelle.I've broke the motor down to check things out and to refresh'n. but now when I look in the parts books for head gaskets and rings,I find head gaskets for the new generation BB and rings for a 4.380 bore,and head gaskets for a 4.370 bore,any advice? and also the motor has rect. port heads and the intake he had on it is a marine dual plane with spacers any advice in this area? it has arias pistons with a slight dome supposed to be 10:1 comp. block has been decked .040" 2 of the pistons were detnated #3 cyl. and #7 cyl. Iwant this baby to thump and run off the pump.

I would think parts would be available...You would have to go to a regular machine shop to get them....I get all my stuff from mine...

I don't know if you could get suff like that from jegs or summit?

I would try to find out why the engine has two detonated cylinders? If it had a problem in the boat chances are it would have more of a problem in the car....

If the engine was designed and built for the water (boat) the cam will have a higher LSA which will cause higher cylinder temps.... a cam swap will probably be in order.....

i can get any thing you need and do know about tall decks i have a 66 gto tall deck donovan aluminum 630+ big block in it so what do you need to know be for this gets out of hand you will need custom headers. things i had to do to get my tall deck to fit make a aluminum oil pan make a set of 2 1/4 headers cut down steering shaft put in steering joints in cut down steering column so i had room for headers work on front cross over .drop centerlink 1 1/2inch make a new pitman arm and idler arm make new engine mounts and alt l brackets this is what it took to do it rigth and no the steering work just fine no bump steer

pat , what about the head gaskets i asked about and does any one offer an aluminum intake for the tall blocks with out using the spacers?and what kind cam should i run in this motor to drive on the street maybe even without a stall, and what kind of hp can i expect out of this motor?i would like to know even if its gonna be worth the effort.is there any other places other than jegs and summit that i can look for parts for this motor?

Ya gotta use the spacers on a tall block with any intake ya use........If'n ya want it to thump you'll need a stall converter. and it'll make nuff power to make your butt grow teeth !!!!!!!!!

The first thing I would do is nail down the exact compression ratio. You need to do that to pick the proper cam and you need to know the specs on the proper cam before you choose a converter.

http://streetmachinesoftablerock.com...opic.php?t=124

4.370" bore gaskets will work fine on a 4.375" bore as long as you're not poppin' the piston out of the bore at TDC. 4.380" rings will work too, they're 0.005" oversize so that you can file-fit 'em.

thats not rigth there is intakes out there for talldecks dart weiand team g world merlin and there is more .head gaskets ? fel-pro the cam ? at this point i can not give you a cam with out knowing gear stall and carb and if you want a roller or flat lifter and how much comp on the piston and you need a good set of headders 2 1/4 3 1/2 ex this is a big engine and they like big cams you stock torque converter will not work it will not take the torque .the deck plates are not a big deal have built them with and with out this far as hp not to much if you are running a stock converter

i do not use the small head gaskets you have if the bore is 4.375 and you use a 4.370 the head gaskets ring will sit in the bore that is no good and if the bore has a chamfer on top of the bore this dose not get better so i have use the 1017 fe-pros if you want to blow head gaskets run the small one .the deck pins that hold the gastket can be off you are play with fire

well to be exact i put an indicator on the piston and checked from the top of the deck and the flat part of the top of the piston pro trueds .025 abovethe deck height. but the piston has about a 1/8'' dome on it, the heads are off of a 90's 454,not for sure the chamber cc,and also not for sure how to figure the comp. ratio off of this info.,the pistons are supposed to be 10:1's. and i agree about the 4.370 head gaskets having a slight over lap into the cylinder. and was the part # that you gave pat the one for the 4.375 bore?OH! by the way i'm enjoying this and i really appreciate all the info and input on this project from all the angles that it is being looked at. thanks again and i hope ya'll keep it rolling in because i'm considering all things on this motor. wjr.

the fel-pro 1017-1 is for a 4.540 bore is 0.41 thick 10.9 cc i have used them for years this what i would use

i have put big blocks with the pistons out of the deck 0.10 but not that much .this is to much for me . and if it has a lot of piston to wall clearances the piston will rock and boy you are getting close if you know some one with a mill? so you can trim this part of the piston down 0.25 this is not a big deal . do not grab the pistons by the skirt when cutting the tops so you do not hurt the pistons when done sand the pistons smooth take all shape edges off tops when done the pistons should feel like a old bar of soap i sand them to 400 sand paper. the little scotch brite discs work good as fare as the compression i would cc the head you can buy one hell of a buret on the net and moroso makes a side card that will help you on the compression . it dos not take much piston dome on this with a 4 1/2 stroke and a 4.375 bore it will sneak up fast

Here's an idea. How about using 0.080" x 4.440" copper gaskets, summit # SCE-013448, $119.50 for the pair and they're reuseable up to 5 times. Pat makes a good point about piston rock, depending of course, on piston to bore clearance......0.080" gaskets would put the squish at 0.054" which should work out about right with the large bore and piston rock if the clearance is loose. The thick gasket would also give you back some of the deck and make it easier for the intake manifold to match up. Wadda you guys think? Give 'em a good spray of Copper Kote on each side and run some Stop-Leak in the cooling system.

cometic head gaskets you can get them up to .065 thick. i think the cheap way out is to trim the pistons run the 1017 fel pro . if you want to cut the comp ratio run the cometics they are better that soild copper i think??:HMMM:

Posted by Pat:
"if you want to cut the comp ratio run the cometics"

Pat, Cometics at 0.065" would put the squish at 0.039". I would run that on a smaller bore motor all day long, but I'm not sure about running it on a big bore motor with loose clearances.

wjr, what's the piston to bore clearance on this motor?

this is close but it will fly. O on the deck .the 1017-1felpro is .041 and have built them that way

thanks again fella's, i'm a machinist/toolmaker by trade so shaving the pistons is not gonna be a problem if needs to be done,i'm liking the simplicity of the 1017 sounds easier but i'm concerned about the cleareance differance between the cylinders,as opposed to the copper gaskets that tech was speaking of,but what concerns me here is the ideal of running the stop leak,i'm gonna need all the cooling power i can get. the differ between the 2 the 1017 will give me .165'' which will be .082'' per side of the walls the coppers will be .065'' which will be .032 per side of cyl. walls,but on the other hand pat has run the 1017 and proved them we don't know about the coppers.i'll have to get the piston to bore clerance i haven't checked this yet. __pat, are the 1017's your running are they on a 4.375 bore motor or on a 4.5 bore motor? thanks again fella's i appreciate all info and inputs. wjr

i have used them on 462 4.280 468 4.310 489 4.310 496 4.310 475 4.350 509 4.500 525 4.310 548 4.530 572 4.500 so you can see this gaskets works i do not like the idea of using a thick gasket some thing like 0.65 + when making it rigth is cutting down the top of the pistons i have a mill and thats what i would do. i keep a way from copper head gaskets they can be a pain in the ass to get them to seal so in the long run the best info i can give you is over 20 years of using the 1017 felpro like i said if it s 4.375 bore and hase a chamfer on top most guys do this after it thas been bored and the deck pins can be off this will move the gaskets so all the sudden you can be off 0.40 or more so the 1017 fel pro start looking good:whacked: