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454 block 60 over
427 crank
7/16 rods
arias dome top pistons 11.5
comp EX284H 574-578 lift 240-246 duration
781 heads, 2.19 intake and 1.88 exhaust
comp rockers,push rods,lifters,guide plates,retainers,seals,springs
RPM air gap intake
Edelbrock 750 #1411
My opinion? 11.5:1 c.r. will need more cam.
Good flat torque curve, around 450 from 2000-5000
HP 172@ 2000 peaks 432@ 5500, this was assuming hly lifters, large tube headers through free flow mufflers, per desk top dyno.
As tech said, needs more cam.:toocool:
Personally those numbers fall a little short I think......?
If the input is correct, the desktop dyno is usually + or - about 5% of what the done engine on the dyno actually turns out. Real world numbers are usually a lot lower than "advertised" numbers. As I said on another post, seen a lot of "600 horse motors" that couldn't get a chassis dyno to register more than 300 !!!!!
why not put a 454 crank in it?? you will have more cubes this is 468 and get it to 12to1 and run a roller cam 680 680 lift 269/279 at 0.50 on 108 do some bowl work on the heads plug that in your deck top dyo who the hell cares about HP what keeps you nailed in the seat isTORQUE
Quote:
Originally posted by Dave Severson
If the input is correct, the desktop dyno is usually + or - about 5% of what the done engine on the dyno actually turns out. Real world numbers are usually a lot lower than "advertised" numbers. As I said on another post, seen a lot of "600 horse motors" that couldn't get a chassis dyno to register more than 300 !!!!!
Your right on track there Dave, and I've checked DTD against some magazine builds with there specks, all were within 3-4%
Hey dr_bowtie, got that spark plug out of the mini van yet ? :HMMM:
And Pat, I wondered the same but figured he wanted the shorter stroke.:toocool:
I would have went with a 454 but I bought the short block already together. I know with 11.5 I will need to run race fuel but with the cam I only have a 2800 stall, so thats why I went alittle smaller. Plus I still want to run my power brakes. What cam would you recommend? I want to stay hydraulic flat tappet.
my thoughts exactly!!!Quote:
Originally posted by techinspector1
My opinion? 11.5:1 c.r. will need more cam.
Power brakes?????:confused:
Young man, I don't know who's been advising you or what you've been reading, but you're way on the other side of reality. I thought when you first posted, you had a bracket racing motor in mind. If you're planning to run this combination on the street, you may not know it, but you're just about knee deep into a nightmare. You're planning your whole build around 11.5 pistons and it's gonna cost you like you won't believe. You'll have to use a cam that makes power from about 3,500 to 7,000 rpm's, so that will mean a new 3,500-4,000 converter and some stiff gears if you don't have them already. You'll need to set aside some time to change valve springs regularly. You'll need a high-rise single plane intake and minimum 850 carb and with the price of racing gas, I'd say you'd be approaching an operating cost, just for fuel, of about $1.00 per mile.
My best advice to you would be to disassemble the short block and sell the Arias pistons on ebay, then purchase pistons which will give you a c.r. of 9.0 to 9.5:1 so you can run pump gas and use your existing converter.
If you're not familiar with how to figure c.r., read this paper I wrote:
http://streetmachinesoftablerock.com...opic.php?t=124
Viking.....
Hell No....I have found plug won't turn if it is cold (left overnight)
But, If I get the engine hotter than snot it'll turn a little ....atleast..more than cold just not enough to come out....
going for the tourch....just gotta remove the exhaust and O2 sensor to get to it.....Very funny....
427 0.60 over this is not to good of a comb power brakes ??? you were going to run this street strip ??put more cam in or take the piston s out. is this some thing you are driving every day? if so take out the pistons if not put a bigger cam in it and get it up to 12 to 5 race gas is the same for 11to1 or 12to5 and forget the power brakes think i would sell all of it or the mass and make a496 or 468 you can make a pump gas monster with the 781 heads and not spend big $$ on gas
I dont want this as a daily driver or anything, I just want to beable to drive it around if I have to. Like to cruises and other shows. I can always get a vacuum canister for the brakes and a bigger stall and rear gears. So with that what cam would you recommend, Do you think I should stay with a hydraulic or go with a solid cam.
i am not a big fan of flat lifters cams in big blocks i like rollers here are some numers howards cam 620/635 294/302 236/242 112 lobe sep and 612/612 296/302 236 /242 on 112this is a good cams for a hydraulic roller mechanical roller 645/645 285/285 244/244/ no110 665/679 282/290 248/254 on110
how much would it cost to swap to a roller set up.
from competition products cam$219 to$230 lifters solid $200 hyd lifters $330you will need springs $70 to$200 for polished pro alloy springs part no 98644 for solid and 98443 for hyd cam I like isky springs i have them in my cars for over 3 years they are great springs DO not put oil restrictors in the block! or you will smoke the springs! some guys run them on solid lifters i do not . you will need a good set of push rods the rigth size i hope this helps
Are you actually at 11.5/1, or is that what the pistons specs say? Have you verified the chamber size, deck hgt, etc? Lots of people think they have a certain c/r because of the pistons, but because of lots of variables, they're way off, usually lower. (This would be good in your case)
If you're actually there, and you want to go with roller cam, I agree with Pat M, Howard's Cams is great to work with...I have a solid roller from them, custom ground... For the cam, lifters and springs, it was just under 1000.00.....for hyd roller, it might be a little more, depending on lifters. A little pricy, but great increase in power because of the way the cam works.
If you're going with the high compression, the combo isnt right....I would go more cam, single plane intake, more converter with a tranny cooler if you dont already have one. This will be a high revving engine with that short stroke. Build it for high rpm if that's the case. ( But then it's not a street engine) Also, staying with that, the oval port heads are OK, but not the best for high revs..neither is a hydraulic cam. Personally, I would dump the pistons (and the crank) build a 468 or stroke it for a 496. Lower rpms with keep it together longer, be easier on parts and on your wallet. Like Pat said, build it for torque. John
Your right, the pistons say 11.5, but i think i will be alittle lower. My deck hight is stock and the heads have 118cc chambers. And then when you add the head gasket, it should drop alittle.
Post the number of the pistons (stock #) or dome size, or cc's ....we have to figure your c/r before you go any further. The cam choice, coverter, lots of other things all depend on the comp.ratio.
They are arias pistons part # 1130010, they have a comp height of 1.765, and a dome cc of 41.5. I think on there web site, it says block ht .000 and deck at 9.780
With the info you give here, and assuming a deck hgt. of .025, .041 gasket thickness, and gasket bore of 4.370, with 118cc chambers, you'll still be at 10.71/1.....still too much for pump gas. Gotta make some changes somewhere. Those pistons are killing you, big domes for the street.