I agree with the thread 100%....
I have built 1000's of engines and DO notice and engine broke in hard and drivin hard will have more power than an exact same engine just drivin normal!

I agree with the theory.....An engine needs to make heat to make power and it make most of it's heat on break in....

most racing engines that are Dyno'd are broken in on the Dyno. A quick warm-up and three 1/2 throttle pulls in quick succession to check timing and what-not then straight on to the full-pulls. After the first full pull it should be fully broken in...

I have a "Run-in" stand that I built myself to brake in engine (mostly chevy's) And I agree the first few minutes is criticle to ring seal and cam break in if you use a flat tappet cam...

Cam break in the rpm should be constantly varied from 2000-3500rpm for the first 5-10 minutes then add 500rpm up till 5500rpm still constantly varying rpm....

The Cam relies on "splash" oiling for lubricant, meaning, the only thing that lubes the cam is splash of the crankshaft. Holding the rpm still will result in a still splash line and varying the rpm will insure splash oil all the way up and down a camshaft....

Also you should note....the cam get no oil at idle or vary darn little and thats why ALL cam tech recommend to avoid excessive idling with a flat tappet cam.