major parts selection mistake

I really screwed up the engine build for my s-10 Blazer project. I had an ok 350 making around 390hp and 405lb-ft in there and it develpoed a crack in teh block so I sold it and got a 454. The 454 came out of a '97 Suburban and I had the L29 heads freshened up with a mild pocket port job and new stock sized valves. I also installed a ZZ502 roller cam and a RPM AirGap intake. I was hoping for 450-500hp. I know that it was optimistic, but I can dream right. Now here is the problem. DD2000 tells me these numbers should be true using their flow numbers for the L29 Vortec heads right from the manual it says which setting to use(450hp and 550lb-ft).

I got the actual flow data from:
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#BBChevy

these flow numbers for the L29 are worse than the worst peanut port heads.

lift int ex
.100 63 49
.200 121 91
.300 165 120
.400 198 133
.500 226 140
.600 242 142

the small block vortecs flow more than these piles of steaming poo.
Now it appears I've built myself an expensive and slow boat anchor. With these flow numbers I'd be lucky to make 350hp@4000rpm. If I was driving a motorhome this would be great, but I have it in a 3500# street/strip car.

I ran low 13's with the small block now after spending over a year and close to $4000 I'll be back in the 14's.

What should I do?

Should I get a different set of heads like the Brodix Racerites? and live with the extremely low CR. I'm kind of stuck with a factory port location due to my custom built headers.

Should I tear it out and start over?

Do I gear it with 2 something gears and hope for the best?

I really feel stupid now...

I took a 454/4L80E combo out of a 96 Suburban. Put a Crane PN 168721 cam, dual springs and a set of headers on it. This engine had 200k miles on it and I just put mains, rods and oil pump in it. Put it in my 68 Chevelle drag car with 5.13 gears. 'bout 3100 lbs. Running 12.4's @108. Yes I also wanted more but not bad for what it is. Running factory fuel injection with the Crane power programmer.

Here's some pics/info if you're interested.

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/647081/8

Forgot to add, engine peaks about 5200. 3rd gear gets me through the 1/8 mile and then I shift into OD to carry me through the 1/4.

Thanks for the response.

I don't know what to do. I don't have overdrive and right now there are 4.11's in the rear. I'm considering running it to see what it will do, but then if it is slow as hell I'll have less time toget it ready for the race season. I have my eyes on a set of Edelbrock Performer high compression 454-O heads, but if I don't need them why spend almost $2000.

Here's my thoughts, my 92 Blazer, with the 28" MT slicks would go through the 1/4 at 55-5600 with the 4.10's (12.78 @ 103). If you were tubbing and could squeeze a 29.5 you would drop that about 300 rpm's. I put the 3.73's back in mine and go through at a very safe 50-5100 rpm. That's probably your best bet.

I'd think you're gonna go mid 12's. Not bad for what you've got and plenty of potential to go faster.

every one i know that uses edelbrock heads are very upset, despite of the better flow numbers they suck

I'll definitely agree on the Edelbrock heads. The Canfields seem to do great if you're not on a Brodix budget.

Hi Slow,

Sorry to hear of your HP dissapointment.


Off the subject a bit but isn't an S10 Blazer like a small Blazer 2 door? If it's what I think it is my buddy had one that got recalled because their bodies would stress crack over the doors (roof) . I would think a BBlock would cause this even worse! Do you make any structural mods towards chassis re-enforcement?

Yes, it is the small Blazer. Came in 2 and 4 door versions. Mines a 2 door. Neverheard of any structural problems. It is full framed (albeit a c-channel part of the way) but stiffening the chassis would definitely improve my 60' time. Just don't see the need yet. Maybe when I pop my windsheild loose;) .

Haha, thanks Sparky.

Speakin of that winshield.. Had another buddy who put a 427 into a Vega. First time he jumped on it the winshield broke!

my blazer

BTW, I had small stress cracks in the tops of the doors back to the side glass when it had the small block. If the roof tears off that would be pretty cool. Someday I hope to build a real engine and add a cage, but right now I don't think it'll need it.

WOW Nice clean job there. Like the color scheme too.

someday it'll get painted 2 tone silver with flames.

Mines a V-6 and weighs a paltry 3050 lbs. The best 60' was a 1.65 and it pulled both wheels (my lie, I'll tell it any way I want!). The picture LOOKS like the RF may have gotten off the ground anyway..........

That V-8 looks cool, good luck with it.

OK

I got my first time slips.

First pass ever with P235/60R15 regular BFG's
air temp 76 degrees track temp 101 degrees low humidity sunny
60' - 1.964
1/8 - 8.228@85.935
1/4 - 12.808@106.219

I was having some shifter problems so I'm not sure of the exact shift points

The rest of the runs for the night were a bit slower(low 13's) since the sun went down and I couldn't hook up at all, but all were just over 106MPH. Smokie burnouts out of the water box all the way to the 1/8 mile marker are lots of fun though.

now here is the million dollar question...
How much will I slow down if I change rear gears? It was turning about 5700 through the traps and pulling good so it seems as though the 4.11's are the right gear for the track, but I really want to drive my toy more than around town. I am on a budget so a gear vendors is probably out of the question and a 700R4 just seems questionable with a BBC making grunt down low.

Is there any way of guestimating the change in ET and MPH if I were to change to a 3.XX gear and run 26 X 9 Hoosier slicks and then 28" street tires?

Since by your own admission you have a motor that would pull a motorhome around well, then going to a higher gear may not hurt perfomance as much as you think, especially in a light vehicle like you have. Use all that torque you built! Maybe try something in the 3.36-3.42 range and go with those shorter slicks, I am betting your times will actually improve compaired to your street tire runs.

Pat

well I'm taking the 9" center section in for gears tomorrow. I've decided on 3.25's with a 29" tire they are about the same as the 700R4,4.11's and 26"tires

I'm hoping I'll pick up some ET and MPH. It would pull really hard out of the hole even on the tiny street tires and then give it up when it got into the revs

Well the gears are in and I love it. I can actually drive on the highway!!!!

Approximately how much ET/MPH does a car pick up going from street radials to a slick? I have a few buddies talking crap now one of which runs 12.20's on a 150 shot. Do you think 6 tenths is too much to ask out of a tire change?

" Do you think 6 tenths is too much to ask out of a tire change?"

no, not if you're talking street radials to slicks......

Quote:

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Originally posted by techinspector1
" Do you think 6 tenths is too much to ask out of a tire change?"

no, not if you're talking street radials to slicks......

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I agree. Maybe even more. I have witnesed a full sec diff.