blowing gaskets

I wonder if any you guys have ever run into this before, I have a 67 chevelle that has always overheated, so I bought the March performance belt and pulley serpentine setup which turns the fan faster, finally the car is running cool (about 165 degrees) never could get under 200 before. But now, when I put my foot into it, it seems to blow a dfferent gasket everytime. First it was the waterpump to block, then it was the water connector, and now it is the gasket on the back of the waterpump for impeller. I am getting very frustrated. I need some tips if anyone has any. I am not sure if I am getting compression in the water system, I dont think so. This is a pretty high performance .030 over 454, 11 to 1 compression, Merlin grumpy jenkins heads, 2 inch Hooker Headers, Comp Cam, XE284 with a 16 lb. radiator cap.
Thanks,
Rick

everything is new just did a total rebuild from top to bottom added the March system when I put the motor back in last week the system came with all pulleys mounting brackets A/C comp. power steering pump with remote reservoir and water pump gaskets came with the water pump (stewart). I talked to March today and they told me to call Stewart pumps so I did and they told me to run a high performance thermostat from Robert-shaw with bypass holes drilled in it I hope this works because the other option he gave was to slow the pump and fan down which I don't want to do cause I finally got the car cooling the best it ever has.

Rick

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Originally posted by DennyW
A clue? Oh, I get it. I'm just an old country boy here. We have a track here, and a lot of the guys don't use a thermostat because of failure. The washer thing is constant. Since you shouldn't run a combustion engine until it reaches operating temp, this is more precise in heavy constant running. I personally use a 180 faultless thermostat in mine. If it fails, it goes open, won't stick closed. :)

Bill, the main point I was trying to get across here is that he has more or less doubled his pump pressure. And, I don't think any thermostat will work right. :)

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Denny i agree with you my uncle tom told me(and i done it) to take the old thermostat and just cut the middle piece out of it and it works fine and the heat will steal work there are was ton's of people trying to tell me that you wouldnt have any heat but YOU DO:HMMM: :LOL: :LOL:

of course this was in a 302 ford thats in my moms truck it blew the radiator hoses off more than once before i done that?


Just my 2 cent's:eek: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

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Originally posted by mrmustang
Guys,

Your missing the point, if your going to take the advice of a racer, perhaps one who rebuilds his motor after every race (if he wants to be competative he does), then your talking with the wrong person. He is not worried about the longevity of his motor, where our original poster is.........

Enough said.

Bill S.

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I was just saying that it would work:confused: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

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Originally posted by DennyW
:) Ok, now, the purpose of using one of these disc, with the hole in the middle, would be to check and see if you blew another gasket. If so, then you would know that the water flow is to much. Also, if the pump moves the water to fast at higher rpm's, it won't collect the heat from the block because it doesn't have time to absorb the heat. (btu exchange going on). Where as, at lower rpm's it would remove the heat. :)

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ran the disc in every round track and drag car i ever had. if i had a problen with a st motor i would use it see if i could get the temp to change with the dif size holes. worked fine. :D

Use the thermostat that Stewart Components recomends or Speedway has one with 4 bypass holes ( does warm up very well in cold weather) or a balanced type that summit sells. This is the one I'm going to try.